Clean Clothes , livre ebook

329

pages

English

Ebooks

2009

Écrit par
Liesbeth Sluiter

Publié par
Pluto Press

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329

pages

English

Ebook

2009

Lire un extrait

Obtenez un accès à la bibliothèque pour le consulter en ligne En savoir plus

Publié par

Pluto Press

Date de parution

09 octobre 2009

Nombre de lectures

EAN13

9781849643917

Langue

English

Poids de l'ouvrage

7 Mo

The Clean Clothes Campaign is a worldwide movement that aims to improve the wages and conditions of sweatshop workers. This is the story of their struggle.

Large retailers such as Tesco, Walmart and Carrefour lure shoppers in with prices that seem too good to be true. This book shows that they're too good to be fair. All along the industry's supply chain, workers, often children, are exploited through poverty wages, unpaid overtime and harsh anti-union measures. The campaign urges those in charge of the garment industry's supply lines to protect their workers and treat them fairly.

This dynamic account of direct engagement by concerned consumers is a must read for those that see globalisation differently and want their shopping choices to support the most vulnerable people involved in the clothing industry.
Dedication

Acknowledgements

Abbreviations and Acronyms

Preface

Introduction

Part I: A Globalising Industry

1. A Footloose Enterprise

2. Destination Elsewhere

Part II: A Globalising Network

3. Asia

4. Africa

5. Europe's Neighbours

Part III: The Campaign in Action

6. Strategic Developments

Interlude: The European Network Up-Close

Part IV: Debates and the Future

7. Support for Workers

8. Consumers

9. Hard law

10. Companies

Epilogue

Notes

Bibliography

Organisations in the Network

Index

Voir

Publié par

Pluto Press

Date de parution

09 octobre 2009

Nombre de lectures

EAN13

9781849643917

Langue

English

Poids de l'ouvrage

7 Mo

Clean Clothes

CLEAN CLOTHES A Global Movement to End Sweatshops

Liesbeth Sluiter

First published 2009 by Pluto Press 345 Archway Road, London N6 5AA and 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010

www.plutobooks.com

Distributed in the United States of America exclusively by Palgrave Macmillan, a division of St. Martin’s Press LLC, 175 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10010

The right of Liesbeth Sluiter to be identiﬁed as the author of this work has been asserted by her in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

ISBN ISBN

978 0 7453 2769 3 978 0 7453 2768 6

Hardback Paperback

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data applied for

This book is printed on paper suitable for recycling and made from fully managed and sustained forest sources. Logging, pulping and manufacturing processes are expected to conform to the environmental standards of the country of origin. The paper may contain up to 70 per cent post consumer waste.

Designed and produced for Pluto Press by Chase Publishing Services Ltd, 33 Livonia Road, Sidmouth, EX10 9JB, England Typeset from disk by Stanford DTP Services, Northampton, England Printed and bound in the European Union by CPI Antony Rowe, Chippenham and Eastbourne

Contents

Photographsviii Dedicationxi Acknowledgementsxiii Essential Abbreviationsxiv Prefacexvii

Introduction 1

PART 1 A GLOBALISING INDUSTRY 1 A Footloose Enterprise The quiet giant awakens Dutch sweatshops The other side of the world Campaign launch Naming and shaming A code of conduct A rare inside view And the beat goes on 2 Destination Elsewhere38

PART 2 A GLOBALISING NETWORK 3 Asia47 Bangladesh: a lethal industry Sri Lanka: the ﬁght in free trade zones Indonesia: jobs at a discount Thailand: how cats became tigers Cambodia: plastic killers and yellow unions China: where the sun never sets 4 Africa91 Madagascar: overcoming isolation Southern Africa: research in action 5 Europe’s Neighbours101 The sweatshop ﬁnds new territories Eastern Europe: industry-turned-sweatshop Poland: caught in the middle Turkey: labour rights are constitutional rights

9 9 11 14 16 19 22 24 28

47 52 57 63 69 74

91 94

101 102 106 109

vi CLEAN CLOTHES

PART 3 THE CAMPAIGN IN ACTION 6 Strategic Developments117 Act locally 117 NGOs without borders 119 The network in action 124 Codes and companies 128 The legal angle 133 Clean clothes communities 136 Sportswear campaigns 139 Urgent appeals 143 Gender 144 The elastic network 148 Interlude: The European Network UpClose154 Malin Eriksson, Sweden 154 Carole Crabbé, French-speaking Belgium 156 Stefan Indermühle, Switzerland 158 Maik Pﬂaum, Germany 160 Frieda de Koninck, Flemish-speaking Belgium 161 Eva Kreisler, Spain 163 Bettina Musiolek, Germany 165 Nayla Ajaltouni, France 166 Michaela Königshofer, Austria 168 Christa de Bruin and Floris de Graad, the Netherlands 169 Martin Hearson, United Kingdom 171 Deborah Lucchetti and Ersilia Monti, Italy 173 Thomas Petersen and Birte Moeller Jensen, Denmark 176 Carin Lefﬂer, Norway 177

PART 4 DEBATES AND THE FUTURE 7 Support for Workers181 Urgent appeals The informal economy and migrant labour Gender Trade unions and NGOs Worker education North and South 8 Consumers200 Fair trade Rating and ranking Ethical brands Sustainable production

183 187 191 193 196 198

200 202 203 210

9 Hard law215 Litigation National legislation European legislation OECD guidelines The Ruggie process: do no harm 10 Companies233 Codes Audits Multi-stakeholder initiatives Fair Wear Foundation Purchasing practices Asian transnational production companies Global retailers New campaign perspectives

Epilogue261 Notes266 Bibliography293 Organisations in the CCC Network295 Index301

CONTENTSvii

217 220 221 225 228

233 234 236 237 241 244 245 249

Photographs

1. Grandmother and child home-worker, India 2008 85 2. Sweatshop, India 2008 85 3. Participants in the European tour push the broken-down bus, Brussels 1996 86 4. Made with Love, label in a C&A brand sweater, Utrecht 2007 86 5. Emelia Yanti, general secretary of GSBI, an Indonesian federation of independent trade unions, Bangkok 2007 87 6. Sign in a Philippine factory supplying Wal-Mart, 2006 87 7. Worker in economic processing zone, Sri Lanka 2002 88 8. Worker tour of Sri Lankan and Indonesian workers and unionists. Indrani Wijebandara of North Sails Lanka visits the sportswear shop of a former Dutch surf champion, 2003 88 9. Solidarity Group, a cooperative garment factory established in the wake of a strike in a regular factory, Bangkok 2007 89 10. Knitwear factory in Madagascar, 2004 89 11. Nur-E-Alam lost his left arm after waiting 17 hours to be rescued from the collapsed Spectrum factory, Dacca 2005 90 12. Spectrum workers demanding the arrest of Spectrum owners after the factory collapsed, killing 64 and injuring 70 workers, Dacca 2005 90 13. Barbed-wire bra – image used in the campaign that convinced lingerie company Triumph to withdraw from Burma, 2001 253 14. South African union leader Jabu Ngcobo meets garment workers in Lesotho, 2001 253 15. Yunya ‘Lek’ Yimprasert, founder of the Thai Labour Campaign, Bangkok 2007 254 16. Protest against the closure of the Gina Form bra factory that supplied brands such as Victoria’s Secret and Calvin Klein, Bangkok 2006 254

viii

PHOTOGRAPHSix

17. The Greek god Zeus launches the Play Fair campaign at the occasion of the Athens Olympic Games, Amsterdam 2004 255 18. Ineke Zeldenrust during an action for Indonesian PT Busana Prima Global workers in Amsterdam, 2003 255 19. Françoise Rabary Harivelo, leader of garment union Syndicat Textile Malagasy, and Hanta Adrianasi, doctor and labour-rights advocate, Bangkok 2007 256 20. CCC International Campaign Forum, Bangkok 2007 256 21. ‘Help the Hema’ campaign of the Dutch Clean Clothes Campaign, Amsterdam 2008 257 22. Marieke Eyskoot of the Dutch Clean Clothes Campaign tries to convince bus drivers to ask their employer for ‘clean’ uniforms in public procurement campaign, Utrecht 2006 257 23. Clean Clothes Campaign Austria stages an action in the context of the Play Fair at the Olympics Campaign, Vienna 2008 258 24. Press conference for the pre-launch of the Play Fair Beijing Campaign 2008, Hong Kong 2007 258 25. Emine Aslan sits outside Desa factory for months after being ﬁred for trying to organise her co-workers, Istanbul 2008 259

Voir