Lonely Planet Pocket Bilbao & San Sebastian , livre ebook

Contents

Plan Your Trip

Bilbao & San Sebastián’s Top Experiences
Dining Out
Bar Open
Treasure Hunt
Museums & Public Art
Architecture
For Free
For Kids
Active Bilbao & San Sebastián
Beaches
Under the Radar Bilbao & San Sebastián
Four Perfect Days
Need to Know
Bilbao Neighbourhoods
San Sebastián Neighbourhoods

Explore Bilbao

Bilbao Old Town (Casco Viejo)
Bilbao New Town
Getxo & Portugalete
Central Basque Coast

Explore San Sebastián

San Sebastián Parte Vieja
San Sebastián New Town & Monte Igueldo
San Sebastián Gros
Hondarribia & Pasaia

Worth a Trip

Understand the Past at Gernika

Walking Tours

Bar-Hopping in Bilbao
Architecture & River Views
Seaside Ramble in Getxo
Following the Pintxo Trail

Survival Guide

Survival Guide
Before You Go
Arriving in Bilbao & San Sebastián
Getting Around
Essential Information
Responsible Travel
Language
Behind the Scenes
Our Writer

COVID-19
We have re-checked every business in this book before publication to ensure that it is still open after the COVID-19 outbreak. However, the economic and social impacts of COVID-19 will continue to be felt long after the outbreak has been contained. Therefore many businesses, services and events referenced in this guide may experience ongoing restrictions. Some businesses may be temporarily closed, or have changed their opening hours and services; some unfortunately could have closed permanently. We suggest you check with venues before visiting for the latest information.
Bilbao & San Sebastián’s Top Experiences

1 Explore the iconic Museo Guggenheim Bilbao

MELANIE LEMAHIEU/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bilbao & San Sebastián’s Top Experiences
1 Admire fine art at Museo de Bellas Artes

ALBERTO TORRES ALVES/500PX ©

Bilbao & San Sebastián’s Top Experiences
1 Understand the past at Gernika

KARSOL/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bilbao & San Sebastián’s Top Experiences
1 Discover Coastal Basque lifestyle in Getaria

FRANCESCO BONINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bilbao & San Sebastián’s Top Experiences
1 Delve into Basque culture and society at San Telmo Museoa

ANTON_IVANOV/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bilbao & San Sebastián’s Top Experiences
1 Enter an aquatic wonderland at Aquarium

HERACLES KRITIKOS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bilbao & San Sebastián’s Top Experiences
1 Hit the beach at Playa de la Concha

EVANTRAVELS/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bilbao & San Sebastián’s Top Experiences
1 Enjoy mountaintop views at Monte Igueldo

UNAI HUIZI PHOTOGRAPHY/SHUTTERSTOCK ©
Dining Out

The Basque Country is famous the world over for its cuisine. Whether you’re stopping for a glass of wine and a few bite-sized pintxos at a local bar in Bilbao, San Sebastián or a coastal village, or savouring cutting-edge gastronomy at a Michelin-starred restaurant, you’re bound to have a memorable food experience.

ALFERNEC/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Pintxos
Enter any bar in the region and the counter is sure to be groaning under the weight of a small mountain of tiny plates of culinary art. These are pintxos (Basque tapas; pictured), which will redefine your interpretation of the bar snack.

Basque Cuisine
The Basque Coast gives rise to superb seafood dishes, such as bacalao al pil-pil (salted cod and garlic in an olive-oil emulsion) and chipirones en su tinta (baby squid in its own ink), while the lush hills and mountains are the source of chuleton de buey (steaks – invariably massive).

Best Pintxos
La Cuchara de San Telmo Arguably one of the best pintxo bars in San Sebastián.
Bergara Bar The pick of the pintxo bars in San Sebastián’s Gros district.
La Viña del Ensanche Go for the tasting menu at Bilbao’s standout pintxo bar.

Best Basque
Casa Victor Montes Bilbao landmark with exquisite pintxos and prized steaks.
Gastroteka Danontzat A fun spot in the centre of Hondarribia.
Tamarises Izarra Contemporary Basque cuisine in Getxo.
Bascook High-end culinary wizardry set in an atmospheric former Bilbao salt warehouse.
Bodegón Alejandro Elegant cellar restaurant in San Sebastián.
Rio-Oja Stews are among the classics at this Bilbao favourite.

Best Seafood
Mesón Arropain Magnificent fish plates and seafood appetisers in Lekeitio.
Elkano Famed seafood served up in the coastal village of Getaria.
Casa Cámara Set out over the water, with a live-seafood cage lowered through the floor.
El Puertito Slurp down oysters and sip crisp white wine at this garrulous den near Bilbao’s stadium.
Kata 4 Top spot for feasting on seafood in San Sebastián’s new town.
Karola Etxea Dine on fresh seafood in a former fishing village above Getxo’s Puerto Viejo.

Best International
Basquery Contemporary flavours in Bilbao’s new town pair with the in-house brews.
Gerald’s Bar San Sebastián outpost of a Melbourne restaurant with an international palate.

Worth a Trip: Michelin Star Tour
With 29 Michelin stars, the Basque Country is a gourmet’s nirvana. Fifteen stars are in and around San Sebastián, including the following once-in-a-lifetime experiences.
Arzak ( www.arzak.es ) Three stars; 3.5km east of San Sebastián.
Martín Berasategui ( www.martinberasategui.com ) Three stars; 9km southwest of San Sebastián.
Mugaritz ( www.mugaritz.com ) Two stars; 10km southeast of San Sebastián.

Bilbao & San Sebastián on a Plate
Pintxos

Pintxos in the Basque Country
A showcase for the Basque Country’s bountiful produce, pintxos come in limitless varieties, incorporating grilled prawns, plump anchovies, cod, tender squid, spider crab, juicy stuffed peppers, wild mushrooms, Idiazabal cheese, air-dried ham, earthy morcilla (blood sausage) and much more. Wherever you go, expect deliciously inventive fare, as creativity is a hallmark of these Basque delicacies.

Top Five for Pintxos
A La Viña del Ensanche A Bilbao classic since 1927.
A Gure-Toki Top choice on Bilbao’s Plaza Nueva.
A La Cuchara deSan Telmo One of San Sebastián’s best pinxto bars.
A Casa Urola San Sebastián stalwart with hams hanging overhead.
A Txalupa Gastroleku San Sebastián specialist with a boat-shaped bar.

Gure-Toki | FORSBERG/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Bar Open

While the Basque Country may not be famous for its nightlife, there’s a lot happening if you know where to look. You’ll find a mix of buzzing cafes, convivial wine bars and lovely shaded terraces. Later on, you can join the party-minded crowds at bars, nightclubs and live music joints, with the revelry continuing late into the night.

FRANCESCO BONINO/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Live Music & Culture
San Sebastián and Bilbao have an array of impressive venues that play a central role in their cultural life. Jazz, classical music, dance performances, live theatre, film screenings and opera are all part of the mix. The vibe is generally friendly and easy-going with a welcome lack of pretension. Venues’ websites have details of upcoming gigs and performances.

Best Bars
Mala Gissona Beer House A lively local spot that serves the best craft brews in Gros.
La Gintonería Donostiarra Gin fans raise a glass at this G&T-loving Gros joint.
Bar Ondarra The best place to head after a day on Playa de la Zurriola.
Pokhara One of the top places to start the night (or early afternoon) in San Sebastián’s new town.
El Balcón de la Lola Bilbao’s go-to late-night spot with a dance floor that draws in the party people.
Residence Catch live music or just stop in for a drink with a laid-back Bilbao crowd.

Best Old-School Spots
Museo del Whisky San Sebastián bar with a museum’s worth of whisky and whisky paraphernalia.
Côte Bar An easy-going drinking den in San Sebastián’s old town.
Bataplan Disco Get your groove on at this classic DJ-fuelled spot near Playa de la Concha.

Best Cafes
Koh Tao Slow down over a coffee or cool drink at this friendly San Sebastián cafe.
Baobab Riverside Bilbao cafe with regular jam sessions, poetry readings and an art-centric vibe.
Bohemian Lane The best place to linger over an organic juice or coffee and dessert in Bilbao’s old town.

Best Performing Arts
Kursaal San Sebastián’s architecturally striking performing arts venue stages an impressive cultural line-up.
Teatro Victoria Eugenia Dating from 1912, this is a lavish San Sebastián theatre to catch a performance.
Tabakalera Celebrated San Sebastián cultural centre with a line-up of film screenings and concerts.
Teatro Arriaga Take in a classical music concert in the neobaroque surrounds of Bilbao’s beautiful old town theatre.
Euskalduna Palace Enjoy classical music from Bilbao’s two orchestras in this striking building.

Best Live Music
Kafe Antzokia The vibrant heart of Bilbao’s contemporary Basque culture: music, public discussions (in Basque), a cafe and bar.
Altxerri Jazz Bar A San Sebastián temple to jazz and blues, hosting local and international musicians.
Le Bukowski One of San Sebastián’s best places to hear eclectic bands from soul to rock.
Etxekalte Live jazz, experimental sounds and DJs near the waterfront in San Sebastián.
Bilborock Bilbao’s concert venue for rock and metal lovers occupies an imaginatively converted 17th-century church.

Bilbao & San Sebastián in a Glass
Txakoli

MARIYANA M/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

Txakoli in the Basque Country
An aperitif that pairs perfectly with pintxos, txakoli (tcha-koh- lee ) comes from three renowned districts. The most highly regarded is grown near Getaria, with vines covering the southeast-facing slopes just inland of the town. This wine has a very pale yellow to greenish colour. The other txakoli -producing regions are Bizkaia (Biscay Province), around Bilbao, and Álava, to Bilbao’s south.

Top Five for Txakoli
A Elkano Txakoli Near Zarautz, this 1830-established, sixth-generation winery runs tours and tastings.
A Cork Bilbao wine bar run by a former Basque sommelier champion.
A Vinoteka Ardoka Contemporary Hondarribia wine bar.
A Rojo y Negro Pintxo bar in San Sebastián serving