The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol III

199 pages

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199 pages

English

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Description

Originally published in 1928, the third volume of The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier details the tailoring and clothes-making industry, including design, sales practices and production methods, in the early 20th century.

Extensively illustrated with photographs and diagrams throughout, it provides the reader with a detailed snapshot of the tailoring trade and its history.

Volume three contents include:

- Wearing of insignia

- Correct Dress for the Occasion

- The Art of Dress

- Outfits for the Tropics

- Garment Renovating

- What Tailors Should Know About Woollens

- Trimmings and Their Troubles

- Court Dress

- Scottish Dress

- How to Make Trousers

- How to Make a Lounge Jacket

- How to Make a Waistcoat.

We are republishing this vintage volume in a modern and affordable edition, complete with a new introduction and high quality reproductions of the original illustration plates.

Dressmaking and Tailoring

Chapter I - Wearing of Insignia

Chapter II - Correct Dress for the Occasion

Chapter III - The Art of Dress

Chapter IV - Outfits for the Tropics

Chapter V - Outfitting (Continued)

Chapter VI - Outfitting (Continued)

Chapter VII - Outfitting (Continued)

Chapter VIII - Outfitting (Continued)

Chapter IX - Outfitting

Chapter X - Garment Renovating

Chapter XI - What Tailors Should Knowabout Woollens

Chapter XII - Trimmings and Their Troubles

Chapter XIII - Court Dress

Chapter XIV - Scottish Dress

Chapter XV - Garment Cutting by Shoulder Measures

Chapter XVI - Military Mess Dress Regulations

Chapter XVII - Military Garments

Chapter XIX - Naval Uniforms

Chapter XX - Clerical Garments

Chapter XXI - Motor Liveries

Chapter XXII - How to Make Trousers

Chapter XXIII - How to Make a Lounge Jacket

Chapter XXIV - How to Make a Waistcoat

Sujets

Loisirs

Loisirs créatifs et artistiques

Couture et Tricot

Sewing

Crafts

Hobbies

Informations

Publié par	Read Books Ltd.
Date de parution	18 avril 2013
Nombre de lectures	0
EAN13	9781447497967
Langue	English
Poids de l'ouvrage	1 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0500€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

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THE MODERN TAILOR, OUTFITTER AND CLOTHIER
PLATE I

H.M. THE KING IN THE ALTERNATIVE DRESS FOR WEAR AT COURT.
THE MODERN TAILOR OUTFITTER AND CLOTHIER
GENERAL EDITOR
A. S. BRIDGLAND, M.J.I.
EDITOR OF THE TAILOR AND CUTTER

VOLUME III
CONTENTS
VOL. III
CHAPTER I
WEARING OF INSIGNIA
CHAPTER II
CORRECT DRESS FOR THE OCCASION
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER III
THE ART OF DRESS
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER IV
OUTFITS FOR THE TROPICS
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER V
OUTFITTING
By H. R. SKIPPER.
CHAPTER VI
OUTFITTING ( continued )
By H. R. SKIPPER.
CHAPTER VII
OUTFITTING ( continued )
By H. R. SKIPPER.
CHAPTER VIII
OUTFITTING ( continued )
By H. R. SKIPPER.
CHAPTER IX
OUTFITTING ( continued )
By H. R. SKIPPER.
CHAPTER X
GARMENT RENOVATING
By T. W. ALLEN (Author of Clothes Cleaning and Renovating ).
CHAPTER XI
WHAT TAILORS SHOULD KNOW ABOUT WOOLLENS
By ALEXANDER YEWDALL (Lecturer in Textile Industries, Leeds University).
CHAPTER XII
TRIMMINGS AND THEIR TROUBLES
By J. D. HIGGINS (Messrs. Higgins Giles, Golden Square, London, W.1).
CHAPTER XIII
COURT DRESS
By PERCIVAL THICKETT.
CHAPTER XIV
SCOTTISH DRESS
By ANDREW SCOTT NICOLL (Executive Treasurer, Edinburgh and Scottish Foremen and Master Tailors Association).
CHAPTER XV
GARMENT CUTTING BY SHOULDER MEASURES
By J. P. THORNTON (Editor West End Gazette and Author of The International System of Cutting ).
CHAPTER XVI
DRAFTS OF MESS JACKETS
By GEORGE BALLINGALL (Managing Director of Hawkes Co., Ltd., Military Tailors, Savile Row, London, W.).
CHAPTER XVII
MILITARY MESS DRESS REGULATIONS
CHAPTER XVIII
MILITARY GARMENTS
By PERCIVAL THICKETT.
CHAPTER XIX
NAVAL UNIFORMS
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER XX
CLERICAL GARMENTS
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER XXI
MOTOR LIVERIES
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER XXII
HOW TO MAKE TROUSERS
By PHILIP DELLAFERA.
CHAPTER XXIII
HOW TO MAKE A LOUNGE JACKET
By PHILIP DELLAFERA.
CHAPTER XXIV
HOW TO MAKE A WAISTCOAT
By PHILIP DELLAFERA.
INDEX
LIST OF PLATES
VOL. III
I.
H.M. THE KING IN THE ALTERNATIVE DRESS FOR WEAR AT COURT
II.
MERINO WOOL FIBRE
CHEVIOT WOOL FIBRE
FIBRE OF CROSS-BRED WOOL
PHOTO-MICROGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION OF BOTANY COATING
III.
PHOTO-MICROGRAPHIC ILLUSTRATION OF A COSTUME CLOTH MADE FROM STRONG CROSS-BRED WOOL.
ILLUSTRATION OF FIBRES TWISTED TO THE LEFT
IV.
ILLUSTRATION OF FIBRES TWISTED TO THE RIGHT
ILLUSTRATION OF TWO-FOLDING
V.
ILLUSTRATION OF PLAIN WEAVE
ILLUSTRATION OF ORDINARY 2- AND -2 TWILL WEAVE
VI.
EXTERIOR OF HAWKES CO., LTD., I SAVILE ROW, LONDON, W.1
VII.
INFANTRY MESS DRESS
VIII.
ARMY OFFICER S SERVICE DRESS
IX.
ARMY OFFICER S GREAT COAT
X.
MESS DRESS FOR TERRITORIAL REGIMENTS
XI.
ROYAL NAVY DISTINCTION MARKS OF RANK ON SLEEVE
XII.
ROYAL NAVY CUFFS AND SHOULDER STRAPS
XIII.
ROYAL NAVAL RESERVE-CUFFS AND SHOULDER STRAPS
ROYAL NAVAL VOLUNTEER RESERVE-CUFFS AND SHOULDER STRAPS
THE MODERN TAILOR, OUTFITTER, AND CLOTHIER
VOL. III
CHAPTER I WEARING OF INSIGNIA
REGULATIONS as to the wearing of the Insignia of the various Orders with Full Dress and Levee Dress.
Instructions as to wearing more than one Neck Badge by the Possessors of the Insignia of more than one Order which is so worn in uniform.
Wearing of Insignia with Court Dress.
Wearing of Insignia with Evening Dress.
Wearing of Knights Grand Cross Ribands and Neck Badges with Evening Dress.
Wearing of Orders, Decorations and Medals in Morning Dress.
Reproduced, with illustrations, by kind permission of Messrs. Harrison Sons, Ltd., Printers in Ordinary to His Majesty, St. Martin s Lane, London, W.C.2.
R EGULATIONS AS TO THE WEARING OF THE I NSIGNIA OF THE VARIOUS O RDERS WITH F ULL D RESS AND L EVEE D RESS
T HE M OST N OBLE O RDER OF THE G ARTER (K.G.)
The Riband is worn over the left shoulder, the Badge resting on the right hip, and the Star affixed to the left breast.
The Garter is worn buckled below the left knee.
The Collar is worn on Collar Days and on other occasions when due notification is given; but not after sunset, except when specially ordered. It is worn over the shoulder straps or epaulettes of Uniform Coats and also over aiguillettes, and fastened at the shoulders by White Satin Bows 1 1/2 wide, the Collar hanging at equal distance back and front. On these occasions the Riband and Badge is not worn.
POSITIONS IN WHICH INSIGNIA OF DIFFERENT ORDERS SHOULD BE WORN TOGETHER

Stars and Neck Badges are shown worn in order of seniority; also Orders and Medals on the breast.
T HE M OST A NCIENT AND N OBLE O RDER OF THE T HISTLE (K.T.)
The Riband is worn over the left shoulder, the Badge resting on the right hip, and the Star affixed to the left breast.
The Collar is worn on Collar Days and on other occasions when due notification is given; but not after sunset, except when specially ordered. It is worn over the shoulder straps or epaulettes of Uniform Coats and also over aiguillettes, and fastened at the shoulders by White Satin Bows 1 1/2 wide, the Collar hanging at equal distance back and front. On these occasions the Riband and Badge is not worn.
T HE M OST I LLUSTRIOUS O RDER OF S T . P ATRICK (K.P.)
The Riband is worn over the right shoulder, the Badge resting on the left hip, and the Star affixed to the left breast.
The Collar is worn on Collar Days and on other occasions when due notification is given; but not after sunset, except when specially ordered. It is worn over the shoulder straps or epaulettes of Uniform Coats and also over aiguillettes and fastened at the shoulders by White Satin Bows 1 1/2 wide, the Collar hanging at equal distance back and front. On these occasions the Riband and Badge is not worn.
Only one Badge is provided, so that when the Riband is worn the Badge is removed from the Collar and vice versa.
T HE M OST H ONOURABLE O RDER OF THE B ATH (M ILITARY AND C IVIL )
G.C.B. or 1st Class; K.C.B. or 2nd Class; C.B. or 3rd Class.
T HE O RDER OF M ERIT
O.M. (Military and Civil). This Order should never be worn in miniature.
T HE M OST E XALTED O RDER OF THE S TAR OF I NDIA
G.C.S.I. or 1st Class; K.C.S.I. or 2nd Class; C.S.I. or 3rd Class.
T HE M OST D ISTINGUISHED O RDER OF S T . M ICHAEL AND S T . G EORGE
G.C.M.G. or 1st Class; K.C.M.G. or 2nd Class; C.M.G. or 3rd Class.
T HE M OST E MINENT O RDER OF THE I NDIAN E MPIRE
G.C.I.E. or 1st Class; K.C.I.E. or 2nd Class; C.I.E. or 3rd Class.
T HE R OYAL V ICTORIAN O RDER
G.C.V.O. or 1st Class; K.C.V.O. or 2nd Class; C.V.O. or 3rd Class; M.V.O. or 4th and 5th Classes.
The Royal Victorian Chain is entirely distinct from the Insignia of the Order. It may be bestowed in conjunction with, or in addition to, or without, the Grand Cross of the Order, and is worn on all occasions when the Riband is worn, either in Full Dress, Uniform, or in Evening Dress.
T HE M OST E XCELLENT O RDER OF THE B RITISH E MPIRE (M ILITARY AND C IVIL )
G.B.E. (men and women) or 1st Class; K.B.E. (men), D.B.E. (women) or 2nd Class; C.B.E. (men and women) or 3rd Class; O.B.E. (men and women) or 4th Class; M.B.E. (men and women) or 5th Class.
T HE O RDER OF THE C OMPANIONS OF H ONOUR
C.H. (men and women). This Order should never be worn in miniature.
T HE I NSIGNIA OF THE 1 ST C LASS (K NIGHT G RAND C ROSS OR K NIGHT GRAND C OMMANDER ) ARE WORN IN THE FOLLOWING MANNER :
The Riband is worn over the right shoulder and in such a position that the bow, which rests on the left hip and from which the Badge is suspended, is immediately below the belt or sash, as the case may be.
To ensure the Riband fitting well, the top edge should be fashioned to avoid sagging, and the ends should not be stitched together under the bow but held behind it by a large hook and eye, with an additional small hook and eye just above to ensure their being kept close together.
Collars are worn on Collar Days and on other occasions when due notification is given, but not after sunset except when specially ordered. They should be worn over the shoulder straps or epaulettes of Uniform Coats and also over aiguillettes, and fastened at the shoulders by White Satin Bows, 1 1/2 wide, the Collar hanging at equal distance back and front.
When the Collar (from which the Badge is suspended) is worn, the Riband of that Order, with its Badge, should not be worn, but it may be replaced by the Riband of another Order.
In the case of a G.C.M.G., a G.C.I.E., and a G.C.V.O., one Badge only is provided, so that when the Collar is worn the Badge is removed from the Riband and attached to the Collar and vice versa. The G.B.E. has no Collar.
D AMES G RAND C ROSS
The Riband (2 1/4 in width) is worn over the right shoulder. It should be attached to the dress on the shoulder and at the waist just above the bow, from which is suspended the Badge. This ensures the Riband keeping in the right position and fitting properly. The Star is worn on the left side, not higher than 6 above the waist.

If a Knight possesses two or more Orders which entitle him to a Riband and Collar of each, only the Riband of one Order and the Collar of another should be worn together.
T HE I NSIGNIA OF THE 2 ND C LASS (K NIGHT C OMMANDER ) ARE WORN AS FOLLOWS :
The Riband with the Badge attached is worn round the neck inside and under the Collar of the Uniform Coat, so that the Badge may hang about 3/4 below the Collar, the Star being affixed to the left breast.
In the case of a Dame Commander of the Order of the British Empire, the Bow with the Badge attached should be worn on the left side, the Star being affixed below the Badge on the same side.

When two Stars are worn they should be directly above each other, the Star of the senior Order being at the top; but when three Stars are worn, the Star of the senior Order is worn above and the Stars of the two junior Orders beneath in line. In the case of four Stars, see diagram facing page 3.
T HE I NSIGNIA OF THE 3 RD C LASS (C OMPANION OR C OMMANDER