The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol II

186 pages

English

Vous pourrez modifier la taille du texte de cet ouvrage

Découvre YouScribe en t'inscrivant gratuitement

Je m'inscris

The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol II , livre ebook

Read Books Ltd. - A. S. Bridgland

Découvre YouScribe en t'inscrivant gratuitement

Je m'inscris

Obtenez un accès à la bibliothèque pour le consulter en ligne
En savoir plus

186 pages

English

Vous pourrez modifier la taille du texte de cet ouvrage

Obtenez un accès à la bibliothèque pour le consulter en ligne
En savoir plus

A propos
Informations
Extrait

Description

Originally published in 1928, The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier is a classic work detailing the tailoring and clothes-making industry, including design, sales practices and production methods, in the early 20th century.

Extensively illustrated with photographs and diagrams throughout, it provides the reader with a detailed snapshot of the tailoring trade and its history.

Volume two contents include:

- Dressmaking and Tailoring

- The Wholesale Trade

- Grading for the Wholesale Trade

- Lays or Economy in Cutting

- Cutting Ladies’ Garments (Nett) by Shoulder Measure System

- Ladies’ Leather Garments

- Collar Cutting and Making for Ladies’ Garments

- The Tailors’ Shop

- Window-Dressing for Tailors

- Light as a Selling force for the Tailor

- Bookkeeping for Tailors

We are republishing this vintage volume in a modern and affordable edition, complete with a new introduction and high quality reproductions of the original illustration plates.

Dressmaking and Tailoring

Chapter I. The Wholesale Trade

Chapter II. The Wholesale Trade

Chapter III. Grading for the Wholesale Trade

Chapter IV. Grading for the Wholesale Trade

Chapter V. Lays or Economy in Cutting

Chapter VI. Cutting Ladies' Garments (Nett) by Shoulder Measure System

Chapter VII. Ladies' Leather Garments

Chapter VIII. Collar Cutting and Making For Ladies' Garments

Chapter IX. The Tailor's Shop

Chapter X. Window-Dressing for Tailors

Chapter XI. Light as a Selling Force for the Tailor

Chapter XII. Buying a Business

Chapter XIII. Insurance for Tailors

Chapter XIV. Sales Letters

Chapter XV. Bookkeeping for Tailors

Chapter XVI. Advertising for Tailors

Chapter XVII. Salesmanship for Tailors

Chapter XVIII. A Glossary of Technical and Textile Terms

Sujets

Loisirs

Loisirs créatifs et artistiques

Couture et Tricot

Sewing

Crafts

Hobbies

Informations

Publié par	Read Books Ltd.
Date de parution	18 avril 2013
Nombre de lectures	0
EAN13	9781447497950
Langue	English
Poids de l'ouvrage	3 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0500€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

Extrait

PLATE I

A MODERN TAILORING DEPARTMENT. Neatness and simplicity characterise this well-furnished interior.
THE MODERN TAILOR, OUTFITTER AND CLOTHIER
THE MODERN TAILOR OUTFITTER AND CLOTHIER
GENERAL EDITOR
A. S. BRIDGLAND, M.J.I.
EDITOR OF THE TAILOR AND CUTTER
CONTENTS
VOL. II
CHAPTER I
THE WHOLESALE TRADE-MEN S GARMENTS
By G. W. SUMPTER (Head Cutter and Designer, John Shannon Son, Ltd., Walsall. Late with John Barran Sons, Ltd., Leeds).
CHAPTER II
THE WHOLESALE TRADE-MEN S GARMENTS
By G. W. SUMPTER.
CHAPTER III
GRADING FOR THE WHOLESALE TRADE-MEN S GARMENTS
By REUBEN SYTNER.
CHAPTER IV
GRADING FOR THE WHOLESALE TRADE-LADIES GARMENTS
By REUBEN SYTNER.
CHAPTER V
LAYS OR ECONOMY IN CUTTING
By REUBEN SYTNER.
CHAPTER VI
CUTTING LADIES GARMENTS (NETT) BY SHOULDER MEASURE SYSTEM
By F. G. STOREY (Designer, Messrs. John Barran Sons, Ltd., Leeds).
CHAPTER VII
LADIES LEATHER GARMENTS
By W. H. HULME (Head Teacher, Clothing Trades Department, Leeds Technical College).
CHAPTER VIII
COLLAR CUTTING AND MAKING FOR LADIES GARMENTS
By PHILIP DELLAFERA.
CHAPTER IX
THE TAILORS SHOP
By H. R. SKIPPER
CHAPTER X
WINDOW-DRESSING FOR TAILORS
By LUNGLEY POWE (Director of Hector Powe, Ltd., London).
CHAPTER XI
LIGHT AS A SELLING FORCE FOR THE TAILOR
By VICTOR HYDE, M.C., M.J.I.
CHAPTER XII
BUYING A BUSINESS
By ELLIOTT STONE, M.J.I. (late Acting Editor, Men s Wear Organiser ).
CHAPTER XIII
INSURANCE FOR TAILORS
By ELLIOTT STONE, M.J.I.
CHAPTER XIV
SALES LETTERS
By ELLIOTT STONE, M.J.I.
CHAPTER XV
BOOKKEEPING FOR TAILORS
By SYDNEY C. JONES, F.C.P.A. (Secretary, London Area, National Federation of Merchant Tailors (Incorporated)).
CHAPTER XVI
ADVERTISING FOR TAILORS
By C. B. KEELING (Ex-President, National Society of Tailors Cutters).
CHAPTER XVII
SALESMANSHIP FOR TAILORS
By H. J. CHAPPELL (Director of Herbert Chappell, Ltd., Gresham Street, London, E.C.).
CHAPTER XVIII
A GLOSSARY OF TECHNICAL AND TEXTILE TERMS
Compiled by the EDITOR.
LIST OF PLATES
VOL. II
I.
A MODERN TAILORING DEPARTMENT
II.
MARSDEN PERFORATED LAYS IN USE FOR THE MARKING OUT OF MEN S CLOTHING
III.
EXAMPLE OF MACHINE STITCHING
IV.
EXAMPLE OF MACHINE STITCHING
V.
EXAMPLE OF MACHINE STITCHING
VI.
THE PROSPERITY FORMPREST BATTERY
VII.
ECONOMY LAYS
VIII.
ECONOMY LAYS
IX.
ECONOMY LAYS
X.
GLASS-FRONTED SHOW-CASES WHICH ALSO ACT AS WARDROBES
XI.
A GROUP OF INDISPENSABLE FITTINGS
XII.
DISPLAY ACCESSORIES FOR THE TAILOR
XIII.
MODERN IDEAS FOR DISPLAY STANDS
XIV.
A TAILOR S OAK DISPLAY STAND
XV.
A MEN S WEAR READY-MADE DEPARTMENT
XVI.
MODERN SHOP-FITTING
XVII.
A SALE WINDOW-WITHOUT THE WORD SALE
XVIII.
DISPLAYING DRESS WEAR
XIX.
AN OVERCOAT DISPLAY FOR WINTER
XX.
SELLING A DESIGN THROUGH THE WINDOW
XXI.
SELLING READY-TO-WEAR
XXII.
A SCIENTIFICALLY DESIGNED REFLECTOR FOR CONTROLLING THE LIGHT IN A TAILOR S WINDOW.

THE SAME REFLECTOR EQUIPPED WITH A COLOUR SCREEN. THE LATTER IS CLEARLY VISIBLE ACROSS THE FACE OF THE FITTING.

A COLOUR LIGHTING ATTACHMENT FOR THE WINDOW REFLECTOR.

AN EXAMPLE OF THE TOTALLY ENCLOSING GLASS-WARE DIFFUSING FITTING FOR INTERIOR ILLUMINATION
XXIII.
A SPOTLIGHT

THE BESPOKE WINDOW OF THE WOOLWICH CO-OPERATIVE SOCIETY
XXIV.
DISPLAY ADVERTISING
XXV.
THE PAVILION, ABBEY PARK, LEICESTER
THE MODERN TAILOR, OUTFITTER, AND CLOTHIER
VOL. II
CHAPTER I THE WHOLESALE TRADE
By G. W. SUMPTER
( Head Cutter and Designer, John Shannon Son, Ltd., Walsall. Late with John Barran Sons, Ltd., Leeds )
IN the tailoring trade, as in every other branch of industry, the last few years have seen many and very varied changes.
The wonderful mechanical appliances, which the brains of our engineers have put forward, are equal in their effectiveness to anything in operation in other trades.
Along with the assistance of such machinery, organisation has devised methods of utilising to its full all the possibilities of such labour-saving devices. The combination of units of machinery, and application of power for driving same, have brought into being the establishment known as the factory. Along with this have come into existence methods of production known as the wholesale, whereby goods are produced in quantities, and by combination of effort are put forward at keen competitive prices.
Power looms produce the cloth, and power-driven machinery, in the hands of experienced operators, converts this into garments. It is a state of modern business that one finds in every quarter. Our trade is affected no less than any other in this direction. The particular features of hand-craft, slow and expensive, were not standard and definite or speedy enough for modern requirements. Glorious examples cling to our memory, as does also the speculative chance of goods produced by those methods.
Products that are dominated by the human element have not always been ideal. Productions from the factory may lack much, but they also possess features of excellence due to the highly specialised process, and its expert operators.
The wholesale branch of the tailoring business is growing by leaps and bounds, and is continually encroaching upon the hand-craft tailor. One almost dares to wonder if the complete craftsman, who can cut and make a garment throughout, will soon be non-existent. In a large measure the success which has come to the wholesale branch of the trade may be traced to a lack of properly trained labour. Ours is a highly skilled business, and one in which much patience is necessary to become an efficient craftsman.
For many reasons the trade has not attracted those apprentices who were essential if hand-craft methods were to survive; for instance, the long hours and the uncertainty of such a seasonal trade.
Then there is the nature of the trade. It is quite to be understood that the average highly spirited boy was not attracted to a calling where he would be required to sit cross-legged for many long and weary hours.
Then, again, the status of our craft has not been of the highest, and very many who came into the business did not keep it up, or drifted away in the slack periods. Thus it will be seen that the wholesale became essential to provide the demand for clothing in sufficient quantities. Also the regular employment with its reasonable hours has become attractive to a far greater degree than the old-time craft methods. Our object here is not to join in the chorus of lament so frequently heard anent the decline of hand-craft, but to set out for the reader s interest an outline showing the activities and methods of the Wholesale Tailoring Trade in all its branches.
To study this branch of the trade to-day we must dismiss from mind the crude and ill-fitting efforts of earlier days. When first this method of production came into being it was employed principally towards the production of working-class garments, where strength was more important than elegance. By a gradual process, due in a measure to the introduction of much skilled labour from hand-craft quarters, and by much diligent study and experiment, a class of production is available that is equal to, if not better than, much of the alleged hand-craft goods. It is a side of the business that must be considered entirely without prejudice, and must be judged on merit. Methods that are speedy are not necessarily inefficient, and efforts that are unorthodox may yet be worthy. Achievement is the object of all effort, and the method by which results are obtained is not too essential.
PLATE II

MARSDEN PERFORATED LAYS IN USE FOR THE MARKING OUT OF MEN S CLOTHING.
I write as one knowing both sides of the trade, hand-craft and machine-craft, and assert that skill is required in the latter in but little less degree than the former.
The prime object before the wholesale manufacturer is bulk orders, standard details, and quantity of output. Orders in bulk are much less in evidence to-day than formerly. The variations in style offered in the wholesale production, the many cross-fittings, and the very extensive ranges of cloths, have caused the retailer to buy more piecemeal, with a view to making his stock as varied as possible. The standard details are set out under the headings of model numbers, and many aids are provided to maintain a particular design. Quantity of output is assisted by such means as cutting out with the band knife machine, the electric cutter, and also still in many cases by the use of the old-fashioned bucky knife.
Another very valuable help towards the speedy output are the Marsden lays. These consist of pattern outlines marked on to a glazed paper, after which they are perforated. Powder is applied to the lay, with the result that on the removal of the lay marked-out garments remain on the cloth. This is a very valued advantage to the wholesaler, as it maintains a standard of quantity of material used, and if the lays are first planned very, very carefully they will remain in use until the particular model is revised.
Then also in the factory are lifts, conveyors, and many other helps that materially contribute towards speedy handling and quantity of output.
But, to start at the beginning, let us first consider the question of cutting for this branch. This calls for a particular study, and a very definite subject to cater for. The average figure, not too erect, moderately muscular, demands reasonable ease, and sufficient size to allow of generous underwear and free filling of pockets.
One has always to bear in mind that the productions in the wholesale are distributed in all quarters, and must be of such proportion as to find acceptance among the many different classes amongst whom they circulate. It is advisable that the figure chosen for model should be rather inclined to head forward, and to have those particular traits of figure suitable to a sedentary occupation. He should be 5 8 in height,