The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol. I.

223 pages

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The Modern Tailor Outfitter and Clothier - Vol. I. , livre ebook

Read Books Ltd. - A. S. Bridgland

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223 pages

English

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Description

Originally published in 1928, The Modern Tailor, Outfitter and Clothier, is a classic three-volume work detailing the tailoring and clothes-making industry, including design, sales practices and production methods, in the early 20th century.

Extremely well illustrated with photographs, many helpful diagrams, and detailed instructions for designing and constructing various garments. It provides the reader with a detailed snapshot of the tailoring trade and its history.

Volume one contents include:

Tailoring as a Vocation
Gentlemen's Garment Cutting
Trouser Cutting - Vest Cutting -
Measures and Measuring - Coat Cutting -
Over Garments -
Cutting for Corpulent Figures -
Trying On -
Manipulation -
Anatomy for Tailors -
Measuring for Ladies Garments -
Skirt Cutting -
Coat Cutting -
Breeches Cutting -
Colour and Clothes -
Juvenile Garments -
Alterations -
Collar Cutting -
Catering for American Clients -
West End Models -
Draft of West End Morning Coat -
Scales of Measurements etc.

Many of the earliest books on fashion and clothing , particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing this vintage volume in a modern and affordable edition, complete with a new introduction and high quality reproductions of the original illustration plates.

Introduction - By William Cooling Lawrence

Chapter I: Some Problems of the Tailoring Trade - By F. Chitham

Chapter II: Tailoring as a Vocation - By W. H. Hulme

Chapter III: Taking the Order - By the Editor

Chapter IV: Gentlemens' Garment Cutting - Trouser Cutting - By Percival Thickett

Chapter V: Gentlemens' Garment Cutting - Vest Cutting - By Percival Thickett

Chapter VI: Measures and Measuring - By the Editor

Chapter VII: Gentlemens' Garment Cutting - Coat Cutting - By Percival Thickett

Chapter VIII: Gentlemen's Garment Cutting - Cutting of Overgarments

Chapter IX: Gentlemens' Garment Cutting - Cutting for Opulent Figures - By Percival Thickett

Chapter X: Gentlemens' Garment Cutting - Variations from the Normal Draft - By Percival Thickett

Chapter XI: Trying-on - Its Place, Purpose, and Plan - By W. W. Piper

Chapter XII: After Trying-on - By W. W. Piper

CHapter XIII: Manipulation - The Principles of Cutting - By the Editor

Chapter XV: Anatomy for Tailors - By the Editor

Chapter XVI: Measuring for Ladie's Garments - By the Editor

Chapter XVII: Ladies' Garments - Skirt Cutting - By Phillip Dellafera

Chapter XVIII: Ladies' Garments - Coat Cutting - By Phillip Dellafera

Chapter XIX: Ladies' Garments - Breeches Cutting - By Phillip Dellafera

Chapter XX: Colour and Clothes - By the Editor

Chapter XXI: Juvenile Garments - Cutting for Juveniles - By J. T. Iley

Chapter XXII: Alterations - Their Cause and Cure - By Percival Thickett

Chapter XXIII: Collar Cutting and Making for Gentlemen's Garments - By Phillip Dellafera

Chapter XXIV: Catering for American Clients - By H. A. Rogers, J.P.

Chapter XXV: West End Models - By D. W. LLoyd

Chapter XXVI: Draft of West End Morning Coat - By J. W. Lovegrove

Scales of Measurements

Sujets

Loisirs

Loisirs créatifs et artistiques

Couture et Tricot

Sewing

Crafts

Hobbies

Informations

Publié par	Read Books Ltd.
Date de parution	23 janvier 2017
Nombre de lectures	3
EAN13	9781473347632
Langue	English
Poids de l'ouvrage	2 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0500€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

Extrait

THE MODERN TAILOR OUTFITTER AND CLOTHIER
GENERAL EDITOR
A. S. BRIDGLAND, M.J.I.
EDITOR OF THE TAILOR AND CUTTER
VOLUME I
Copyright 2013 Read Books Ltd.
This book is copyright and may not be reproduced or copied in any way without the express permission of the publisher in writing
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Dressmaking and Tailoring
Dressmaking and Tailoring broadly refers to those who make, repair or alter clothing for a profession. A dressmaker will traditionally make custom clothing for women, ranging from dresses and blouses to full evening gowns (also historically called a mantua-maker or a modiste). Whereas a tailor will do the same, but usually for men s clothing - especially suits. The terms essentially refer to a specific set of hand and machine sewing skills, as well as pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional clothing. This is separate to made to measure , which uses a set of preexisting patterns. Usually, a bespoke tailored suit or dress will be completely original and unique to the customer, and hence such items have been highly desirable since the trade first appeared in the thirteenth century. The Oxford English Dictionary states that the word tailor first came into usage around the 1290s, and undoubtedly by this point, tailoring guilds, as well as those of cloth merchants and weavers were well established across Europe.
As the tailoring profession has evolved, so too have the methods of tailoring. There are a number of distinctive business models which modern tailors may practice, such as local tailoring where the tailor is met locally, and the garment is produced locally too, distance tailoring , where a garment is ordered from an out-of-town tailor, enabling cheaper labour to be used - which, in practice can now be done on a global scale via e-commerce websites, and a travelling tailor , where the man or woman will travel between cities, usually stationing in a luxury hotel to provide the client the same tailoring services they would provide in their local store. These processes are the same for both women s and men s garment making.
Pattern making is a very important part of this profession; the construction of a paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting our and assembling. A custom dressmaker (or tailor) frequently employs one of three pattern creation methods; a flat-pattern method which begins with the creation of a sloper or block (a basic pattern for a garment, made to the wearer s measurements), which can then be used to create patterns for many styles of garments, with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements and so on. Although it is also used for womenswear, the drafting method is more commonly employed in menswear and involves drafting a pattern directly onto pattern paper using a variety of straightedges and curves. Since menswear rarely involves draping, pattern-making is the primary preparation for creating a cut-and-sew woven garment. The third method, the pattern draping method is used when the patternmaker s skill is not matched with the difficulty of the design. It involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern, by pinning fabric directly on a dress form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.
Dressmaking and tailoring has become a very well respected profession; dressmakers such as Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Crist bal Balenciaga and Coco Chanel have gone on to achieve international acclaim and fashion notoriety. Balmain, known for sophistication and elegance, once said that dressmaking is the architecture of movement. Whilst tailors, due to the nature of their profession - catering to men s fashions, have not garnered such levels of individual fame, areas such as Savile Row in the United Kingdom are today seen as the heart of the trade.
THE MODERN TAILOR, OUTFITTER AND CLOTHIER
PLATE I

HENRY POOLE CO., LTD., SAVILE ROW, LONDON, W.1.
PREFACE
N O attempt has hitherto been made to produce a work for the Tailoring Trade which could aspire to the scope and purpose of an encyclop dia. Such a project has only been rendered possible by the co-operation of men of diverse gifts and varied knowledge. In practically every case specialists asked to deal with a subject accepted the offer and gave of their best.
In undertaking a task of this nature, breadth of view was the main consideration-the Clothing Trade being looked upon as a whole. It was imperative to remember in such a survey that not only is there the high-class tailor conducting an exclusive trade, but the medium-class bespoke tailor whose work is also individual, and the colossal ready-to-wear or wholesale branch. A reasonable outlook shows these as parts of a great industry. Each can learn from the other : the bespoke trade teaching style and the wholesale trade methods of production.
The Editor is grateful to all those in every section of the trade who have collaborated with him and spared no pains to make the work a success. He would like to express thanks to Mr. William Cooling Lawrence for his wise and temperate introduction; to Mr. Frank Chitham for a candid and reasoned view of the future of the trade; to Messrs. Hawkes Co. and Mr. Charles Howell for the loan of various illustrations; to Messrs. Dormeuil Fr res for photographs; to Mr. J. D. Higgins for his views on trimmings; to various West End masters for drafts of fashionable garments-indeed, to one and all who have contributed articles, drawn diagrams, or given permission to reproduce illustrations.
A. S. B.
CONTENTS
VOL. I
INTRODUCTION
By WILLIAM COOLING LAWRENCE (President, Association of London Master Tailors, and Chairman, Joint Conciliation Board).
CHAPTER I
SOME PROBLEMS OF THE TAILORING TRADE
By F. CHITHAM (Director, Harrods, Ltd.).
CHAPTER II
TAILORING AS A VOCATION
By W. H. HULME (Head Teacher, Clothing Trades Department, Leeds Technical College).
CHAPTER III
TAKING THE ORDER
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER IV
GENTLEMEN S GARMENT CUTTING-TROUSER CUTTING
By PERCIVAL THICKETT (Author of Defects and Remedies, Body Coats , etc.).
CHAPTER V
GENTLEMEN S GARMENT CUTTING-VEST CUTTING
By PERCIVAL THICKETT.
CHAPTER VI
MEASURES AND MEASURING
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER VII
GENTLEMEN S GARMENT CUTTING-COAT CUTTING
By PERCIVAL THICKETT.
CHAPTER VIII
GENTLEMEN S GARMENT CUTTING-CUTTING OF OVERGARMENTS
By PERCIVAL THICKETT.
CHAPTER IX
GENTLEMEN S GARMENT CUTTING-CUTTING FOR CORPULENT FIGURES
By PERCIVAL THICKETT.
CHAPTER X
GENTLEMEN S GARMENT CUTTING-VARIATIONS FROM THE NORMAL DRAFT
By PERCIVAL THICKETT.
CHAPTER XI
TRYING-ON-ITS PLACE, PURPOSE, AND PLAN
By W. W. PIPER (Author of The Art of the Fitting-Room, Ladies Garments and How to Make Them , etc.).
CHAPTER XII
AFTER TRYING-ON
By W. W. PIPER.
CHAPTER XIII
MANIPULATION
By W. W. PIPER.
CHAPTER XIV
THE PRINCIPLES OF CUTTING
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER XV
ANATOMY FOR TAILORS
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER XVI
MEASURING FOR LADIES GARMENTS
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER XVII
LADIES GARMENTS-SKIRT CUTTING
By PHILIP DELLAFERA.
CHAPTER XVIII
LADIES GARMENTS-COAT CUTTING
By PHILIP DELLAFERA.
CHAPTER XIX
LADIES GARMENTS-BREECHES CUTTING
By PHILIP DELLAFERA.
CHAPTER XX
COLOUR AND CLOTHES
By the EDITOR.
CHAPTER XXI
JUVENILE GARMENTS-CUTTING FOR JUVENILES
By J. T. ILEY (Author of Beginner s First Course and How to Become a Ladies Tailor ).
CHAPTER XXII
ALTERATIONS-THEIR CAUSE AND CURE
By PERCIVAL THICKETT.
CHAPTER XXIII
COLLAR CUTTING AND MAKING FOR GENTLEMEN S GARMENTS
By PHILIP DELLAFERA.
CHAPTER XXIV
CATERING FOR AMERICAN CLIENTS
By H. A. ROGERS, J.P. (Director of John Walls Ltd., 106 Jermyn Street, London, W.1).
CHAPTER XXV
WEST END MODELS
By D. W. LLOYD (Director of Teague Ltd., of Jermyn Street, London, W.1).
CHAPTER XXVI
DRAFT OF WEST END MORNING COAT
By J. W. LOVEGROVE (Honorary President, London Alliance of Master and Foremen Tailors; Prize Medallist, etc.).
SCALES OF MEASUREMENTS
LIST OF PLATES
VOL. I
I. HENRY POOLE AND COMPANY, LTD., SAVILE ROW, LONDON, W.1
II. GEORGE DUNCAN, WEARING HIS SPECIALLY SELECTED DESIGN IN SPORTEX (BY COURTESY OF DORMEUIL FR RES)
III. HAWKES AND COMPANY, LTD., SAVILE ROW, LONDON, W.1. CUTTING HALL
IV. ABE MITCHELL, WEARING HIS SPECIALLY SELECTED DESIGN IN SPORTEX (BY COURTESY OF DORMEUIL FR RES)
V. A WEST END RECEPTION ROOM (BY COURTESY OF MR. CHARLES HOWELL, 30, HANOVER STREET, W.)
VI. A WEST END CUTTING ROOM (BY COURTESY OF MR. CHARLES HOWELL, 30, HANOVER STREET, W.)
THE MODERN TAILOR, OUTFITTER, AND CLOTHIER
VOL, I
INTRODUCTION
By WILLIAM COOLING LAWRENCE
( President, Association of London Master Tailors, and Chairman, Joint Conciliation Board )
I T is impossible within the limited space at my disposal to do more than sketch in brief outline my opinion of the importance and complexity of the Tailoring Industry.
In literature the genius of Carlyle has not disdained to speculate on the philosophy of clothes.
In the progress of wool from the sheep s back in Australia to the mills of Bradford, it is amazing to reflect on the labour and technical processes required to produce the cloth, the raw material of the Industry.
On its wholesale side the tailoring trade provides ample scope for organising skill and the employment of large amounts of capital; while in the fashionable shops of the West End of London the trade reaches almost the dignity of an art, in which accuracy of cut and perfection of workmanship are displayed in material of the highest quality.
To the individual, happily endowed with the requisite industry, intelligence, and attention to detail, the vocation of a tailor offers an interesting career, with well-paid posts on the way and brilliant prizes at the top.
The youthful apprentice,