First Steps In Dressmaking - Essential Stitches And Seams, Easy Garment Making, Individualizing Tissue-Paper Patterns , livre ebook

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144 pages

English

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Many of the earliest books, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.

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Publié par	Read Books Ltd.
Date de parution	14 juillet 2020
Nombre de lectures	1
EAN13	9781528763608
Langue	English
Poids de l'ouvrage	4 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0350€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

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FIRST STEPS IN DRESSMAKING
ESSENTIAL STITCHES AND SEAMS EASY GARMENT MAKING INDIVIDUALIZING TISSUE-PAPER PATTERNS
Copyright 2013 Read Books Ltd.
This book is copyright and may not be reproduced or copied in any way without the express permission of the publisher in writing
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
Dressmaking and Tailoring
Dressmaking and Tailoring broadly refers to those who make, repair or alter clothing for a profession. A dressmaker will traditionally make custom clothing for women, ranging from dresses and blouses to full evening gowns (also historically called a mantua-maker or a modiste). Whereas a tailor will do the same, but usually for men s clothing - especially suits. The terms essentially refer to a specific set of hand and machine sewing skills, as well as pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional clothing. This is separate to made to measure , which uses a set of preexisting patterns. Usually, a bespoke tailored suit or dress will be completely original and unique to the customer, and hence such items have been highly desirable since the trade first appeared in the thirteenth century. The Oxford English Dictionary states that the word tailor first came into usage around the 1290s, and undoubtedly by this point, tailoring guilds, as well as those of cloth merchants and weavers were well established across Europe.
As the tailoring profession has evolved, so too have the methods of tailoring. There are a number of distinctive business models which modern tailors may practice, such as local tailoring where the tailor is met locally, and the garment is produced locally too, distance tailoring , where a garment is ordered from an out-of-town tailor, enabling cheaper labour to be used - which, in practice can now be done on a global scale via e-commerce websites, and a travelling tailor , where the man or woman will travel between cities, usually stationing in a luxury hotel to provide the client the same tailoring services they would provide in their local store. These processes are the same for both women s and men s garment making.
Pattern making is a very important part of this profession; the construction of a paper or cardboard template from which the parts of a garment are traced onto fabric before cutting our and assembling. A custom dressmaker (or tailor) frequently employs one of three pattern creation methods; a flat-pattern method which begins with the creation of a sloper or block (a basic pattern for a garment, made to the wearer s measurements), which can then be used to create patterns for many styles of garments, with varying necklines, sleeves, dart placements and so on. Although it is also used for womenswear, the drafting method is more commonly employed in menswear and involves drafting a pattern directly onto pattern paper using a variety of straightedges and curves. Since menswear rarely involves draping, pattern-making is the primary preparation for creating a cut-and-sew woven garment. The third method, the pattern draping method is used when the patternmaker s skill is not matched with the difficulty of the design. It involves creating a muslin mock-up pattern, by pinning fabric directly on a dress form, then transferring the muslin outline and markings onto a paper pattern or using the muslin as the pattern itself.
Dressmaking and tailoring has become a very well respected profession; dressmakers such as Pierre Balmain, Christian Dior, Crist bal Balenciaga and Coco Chanel have gone on to achieve international acclaim and fashion notoriety. Balmain, known for sophistication and elegance, once said that dressmaking is the architecture of movement. Whilst tailors, due to the nature of their profession - catering to men s fashions, have not garnered such levels of individual fame, areas such as Savile Row in the United Kingdom are today seen as the heart of the trade.
PREFACE
Probably no subject is of such vital interest to women as clothes. Always to be suitably and becomingly dressed-this is indeed an ambition toward which every woman aspires. But what does this involve? First of all, the ability to select the right colours, fabrics, and designs for her type and needs. And secondly, if she must dress on a modest income, the ability to make smart, attractive clothes.
This book lays the foundation for this ability. It takes up the necessary sewing tools, the making of the stitches and seams that are used in all garments, the way to apply this information in making several very attractive garments for which no patterns are needed, and the use of patterns and their adjustment for perfect fitting. Equipped with such information, a woman is prepared to make garments of a simple nature and to undertake a study of the more interesting processes of cutting, fitting, and finishing dresses.
In a study of Essential Stitches and Seams , the important points to earn are how to handle all the tools that a dressmaker uses, including the sewing machine, and how to make with perfection the various stitches that are used in sewing. It is indeed true that the greater one s experience, the better will be one s workmanship. But a good slogan to adopt from the very start is, Perfection in the smallest detail.
To provide examples for immediate practice, several garments or which almost every woman has need, are included in Easy Garment Making . These provide training in cutting material without patterns, making seams, cutting and piecing bias strips, making hems and plackets, applying pockets, shoulder straps, bindings, lacings, and many other types of foundation finishes. The complete directions and very clear illustrations given for them will enable any woman to make garments which she will be proud to wear.
The excellent patterns obtainable to-day make dressmaking a possibility for every woman. But to achieve smart results, it is necessary to take one s measurements correctly in order to determine the correct size, to alter patterns for irregularities of figure, and to make a guide pattern for checking up other patterns. All these matters are thoroughly explained and illustrated in the Section, Individualizing Tissue-Paper Patterns . With such knowledge, patterns will serve the true purpose for which they are intended-accurate cutting guides for modish and correct-fitting garments.
Throughout this book, illustrations are used to make the sewing instructions absolutely clear. In fact, so well are the various articles and sewing processes pictured that the study of the text becomes a simple and fascinating task.
A woman who masters these first steps of dressmaking has made a good start in learning how to sew. As she advances, she will acquire a training that will enable her, besides making her own clothes, to become a professional dressmaker should she so desire. In entering this field, which is a large one, she may do general dressmaking or she may specialize in some phase of it that particularly appeals to her. Thus she puts herself in a position to enjoy the delights of independence.
CONTENTS
ESSENTIAL STITCHES AND SEAMS
A CQUIRING S EWING S KILL
M AKING E SSENTIAL S TITCHES AND S EAMS
Advantages of Making Samplers - Value of Tidiness .
S EWING M ATERIALS AND T OOLS
Cutting Equipment - Shears - Bent Trimmers - Small-Size Scissors - Pinking Shears - Buttonhole Scissors - Table - Measuring and Marking Equipment - Tape Measure - Yardstick - Ruler - Dressmaker s Gauge - Tailor s Chalk - Tracing Wheel - Sewing Equipment - Basting Thread - Sewing Thread - Pins - Pin Cushion - Needles - Needle and Cotton Thread Sizes for Varied Fabrics - Emery Bag - Thimble - Pressing Equipment - Irons - Ironing Board - Sleeve Board - Pressing Cushion - Press Cloths - Pan for Water - Fitting Equipment - Dress Form - Skirt Gauge .
T HE S EWING M ACHINE
History and Types - Lock-Stitch Machine - Chain-Stitch Machine - Correct Use of the Machine - Precautions in Using the Sewing Machine .
H AND AND M ACHINE S EWING
Threading a Needle - Basting - Uneven Basting - Even Basting - Diagonal Basting - Mark-Stitches or Tailor s Tacks - Foundation Needle Stitches - Running-Stitch - Back-Stitch - Half-Back-Stitch - Combination - Stitch-Gathering - Overcasting - Overhanding - Catch-Stitch - Hemming - Vertical Hemming - Napery, or French, Hem - Slip-Stitch or Blind-Stitch - Rolled Slip-Stitched Hem - Hand-Hemstitching - Foundation Seams - Plain Seam - French Seam - Flat Fell - Standing, or French, Fell - Overlapped Seam - Buttonholes - Horizontal Buttonholes - Vertical Buttonholes - Marking for Buttonholes - Cutting Buttonholes - Stranding Buttonholes - Overcasting Buttonholes - Working Buttonholes - Making Buttonhole Bar - Sewing on Buttons .
EASY GARMENT MAKING
H ELPFULNESS OF S EWING
Getting Results from Practical Work - Helpful Suggestions .
M AGIC A PRON
Knowing Your Material - Cutting Out the Apron - Arranging the Fulness - Finishing the Waist Line - Finishing the Bib - Hemming the Apron - Applying the Pockets - Making the Buttonhole .
S TEP-IN P ANTIES
Material Requirements and Measurements - Forming the Pattern - Cutting Out the Pattern - Cutting the Panties - Cutting and Joining Bias Strips - Preparing the Panties for Fitting - Finishing the Side Seams and Opening - Facing the Top - Binding the Lower Edges - Finishing the Panties .
B ODICE S LIP
Material Requirements and Measurements - Forming the Pattern - Cutting and Marking the Slip - Preparing the Slip for Fitting - Fitting the Slip - Finishing the Waist Line and Top - Finishing the Slip .
O VERBLOUSE
Material Requirements and Measurements - Cutting the Blouse - Making and Fitting the Blouse - Finishing the Blouse .
V ARIETY B LOUSE
Material Requirements - Taking Measurements - Forming the Pattern - Cutting the Pattern - Determining the Yardage - Cutting Out the Blouse - Marking and Preparing