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GreenLight status awarded. Checklist Internal Pages (Final) ran on Thursday 11 November 2021 at 01:34
Informations
| Publié par | Search Press |
| Date de parution | 01 janvier 0001 |
| Nombre de lectures | 1 |
| EAN13 | 9781800930308 |
| Langue | English |
| Poids de l'ouvrage | 38 Mo |
Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0800€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.
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Big Weaving on a Small Loom BigWeavingonaSmallLoom
A co n t e m p o ra r y g u i d e t o c re a t i n g i n s p i re d l a rg e r p i e ce s
Fiona Daly
Big Weaving on a Small Loom
Big Weaving on a Small Loom
A contemporar y guide to creating inspired larger pieces
Fiona Daly
Pulishéd in 2022 y Séarçh Préss Ld Wéllwood Norh Farm Rd Tunridgé Wélls Kén TN2 3DR
A QUARTO BOOK
Copyrigh © 2022 Quaro Pulishing plç. All righs résérvéd.
This ook may no é réproduçéd in wholé or in par, in any form or y any méans, éléçroniç or méçhaniçal, inçluding phooçopying, réçording or y informaion soragé and rériéval sysém now known or héréafér invénéd, wihou hé prior pérmission of hé çopyrigh holdér.
ISBN-13: 978-1-80092-037-8 éook ISBN: 978-1-80093-030-8
QUAR.343955
Conçéivéd, édiéd and désignéd y Quaro Pulishing plç 6 Blundéll Sréé, London N7 9BH
Edior: Jénny Fox-Provérs Projéçs édior: Anna Galkina Désignér: Raçhél Cross Phoographérs: Al Higgins, Niçki Dowéy and Phil Wilkins (for addiional phoo çrédis pléasé séé pagé 144) Illusraor: Kuo Kang Chén Ar diréçor: Gémma Wilson Pulishér: Lorrainé Diçkéy
Méé Fiona
CHAPTER 1MATERIAL CHOICES
Téxilés and hé Environmén Thé Origin of Maérials Susainalé Yarn Choiçés
C O N T E N T S
CHAPTER 2 TOOLS & TECHNIQUES
All Aou hé Loom Méé hé Tools Dréssing hé Loom Handwéaving wih a Héddlé Bar Paérnéd Wéaving wihou a Héddlé Bar Advançing hé Warp Rémoving Your Wéaving from hé Loom Wovén Téçhniqués: Floas and Tasséls Vériçal Soumak Léno Wéavé Edging Téçhniqués: Hémsiçhing Fringing Kno and Darn Edging
6
8
10 12 18
20
22 24 26 34 36 38 40
42 44 46
48 50 51
Wéavé Diréçory: Vériçal Dogooh Vériçal Hérringoné Wafflé Wéavé Pinwhéél Plain Wéavé Variaions
CHAPTER3 THE PROJECTS
Dogooh Sçarf Infiniy Sçarf Mésh Bag Toé Bag Bah Ma Talé Runnér Tassélléd Cushion Bolsér Cushion
Making Your Own Framé Loom Grafing Knos
Glossary Indéx Açknowlédgéméns Imagé Crédis
52 54 56 58 60 62
68
70 78 84 92 100 108 118 126
134 138 139
140 142 144 144
6
M E E T F I O N A
Héllo! My namé is Fiona Daly and I’m a éxilé désignér-makér, handwéavér and wriér from Iréland. My praçiçé is çraf- and réséarçh-léd, foçusing on susainalé éxilés, çirçular désign, wéavé and éduçaion. I am a mémér of Désign & Crafs Counçil Iréland. I désign for mills, éaçh wihin highér and furhér éduçaion, and run privaé workshops, whilé also dévéloping my own handwéaving çraf praçiçé. I am inçrédily passionaé aou hé çraf of handwéaving, and horoughly énjoy sharing his lové hrough my éaçhing and my ooks. My firs ook,Weaving on a Little Loom,was pulishéd in 2018.
My lové of çonsruçéd éxilés égan a an éarly agé, influénçéd y my grandmohér, who workéd as a laçémakér and ran hér own çraf shop in hé wés of Iréland. I was a naural progréssion ha I wén on o sudy Téxilé Désign a hé Naional Collégé of Ar & Désign in Iréland. During hésé highly çréaivé, simulaing yéars, I also had hé opporuniy o sudy in Bérgén, Norway, whéré my appréçiaion of radiional çrafs and maérials gréw. Afér graduaing, I honéd my wéaving skills whils working for a handwéavér in hé wés of Iréland.
Sinçé hén, my wéaving journéy has évolvéd ino many srands. Through wéaving résidénçiés in hé Shéland Islands and rural Dénmark, I gréaly dévélopéd my wovén désign skills. During my yéars in Edinurgh, I was involvéd in a mulidisçiplinary çraf workshop, whéré I égan éaçhing wéaving çoursés and féll in lové wih i! Moré réçénly, I wén açk o sçhool o sudy for my masérs in Téxilé Désign a Chélséa Collégé of Ar & Désign in London, çhoosing o sudy héré as i çonsolidaéd my inérés in susainalé éxilés. This allowéd mé foçuséd imé o réséarçh çoré héoriés and désign prinçiplés, whiçh now undérpin my wéaving praçiçé, and whiçh I aim o éxénd and sharé moré widély hrough his ook.
Slow, susainalé and éhiçal éxilés aré all sriving owards hé samé aspiraional goal – a héalhiér rélaionship éwéén us, our çlohés and éxilés, and our plané. A ‘slow movémén’ méans jus ha – o slow down spééd – and i çan é appliéd o jus aou anyhing. Thé çonçép is orn ou of hé Slow Food movémén, hé rainçhild of Carlo Périni, wih roos daing açk o 1986 in Ialy. I aims o çéléraé régional, loçal çuisiné, madé from wéll-sourçéd, qualiy ingrédiéns. Thanks o Carl HonorÉ’s ookIn Praise of Slow(2004), hé ‘slow movémén’ çonçép has mushrooméd gloally, énçompassing indusriés as road as food, désign and agriçuluré, among many moré.
Thé Slow Téxilés movémén dévélopéd as a résponsé o hé wéniéh-çénury’s dériménal fas fashion indusry of mass-produçéd çlohing, wih is ill-çonsidéréd maérials, produçion and supply çhains. In çonras, slow désign énçouragés désignérs o maké a çonsçiénious çhoiçé whén i çomés o maérials and proçéssés. A hé samé imé, i urgés désignérs and çonsumérs aliké o slow down hé évér-inçréasing paçé of fashion and éxilés.
Thé philosophiés éhind hé Fiérshéd movémén orrow from his ‘slow’ framéwork. Esalishéd y hé pionééring Rééçça Burgéss, Fiérshéd urgés us o ask hé samé quésions of our çlohing as wé now do of our food. A ‘fiérshéd’ çan é désçriéd as a géographiçal landsçapé ha providés
MEET FIONA
hé résourçés and infrasruçuré o çréaé a loçal, régional éxilé supply çhain wih low énvironménal impaç. Méanwhilé, susainalé éxilés réprésén hé nééd o imprové hé susainailiy of hé éxilés hroughou héir lifé çyçlé, from désign o énd of usé.
Throughou hé proçéss of wriing his ook and désigning is projéçs, I havé kép hésé prinçiplés in mind. In hé firs çhapér, you will find a séçion on hé origin of maérials, linking you, hé wéavér, açk o hé éginnings of your yarns. Thé yarn suppliérs çaréfully séléçéd for hé projéç désigns all sharé my loçal, éhiçal and susainalé éhos.
As my wéaving praçiçé is rooéd in susainalé désign éhos, I wanéd o fééd his approaçh ino hé ook, and sharé hésé idéas wih ohér wéavérs. My aim is o énçouragé you, hé hoyis wéavér, o çonsidér your çhoiçé of maérials and héir énvironménal impaç. Throughou hé ook héré is an undérlying foçus on énçouraging wéavérs o usé susainalé, loçally produçéd yarns and maérials.
Béing résriçéd y hé sizé of hé loom, pariçularly a framé loom, is a frusraion I héar so ofén from my sudéns, éspéçially whén héy aré in héir wéaving groové. So in his ook, I also wish o énçouragé you o push your framé loom o is limis o wéavé long éxilé piéçés, soméhing ha you may no havé çonsidéréd éforé! Through wéaving hé projéçs in his ook, i is my hopé ha you will çréaé your own slow éxilés – a çolléçion of largé éxilés for you and your homé, from ags o an ovérsizéd sçarf o çushions. Through hinking a i aou hésé çonçéps, I also hopé hé growing çonvérsaion around susainalé éxilés çan é éxploréd in your own paçh of hé wéaving world.
Happy Wéaving!
Fiona
MEET FIONA
7
C H A P T E R 1
M AT E R I A L C H O I C E S
T E X T I L E S A N D T H E E N V I R O N M E N T
For me, Fall 2018 marked a turning point in public awareness of the pressing issue of climate emergency. October 2018 saw the publication of the landmark report by United Nations body the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change. Shortly after, in December 2018, Sir David Attenborough attended the opening of the 24th UN Climate Change Conference (COP24) in Poland. Delivering the People’s Seat Address, he advocated passionately for the need by everyone to take action. Greta Thunberg’s ongoing School Strike for Climate Change, and Extinction Rebellion’s protests, were set to the backdrop of the horrific impacts of raging bush fires, flash floods, earthquakes and droughts being experienced around the globe today. We were warned of such catastrophic events, but they are still shocking to observe and devastating to experience.
The Role of Weaving Wha has all his o do wih handwéaving? Wéaving is hé çraf of çréaing éxilés. A his momén, of all indusriés açross hé world, hé fashion and éxilés indusry is hé séçond largés polluér. This is largély a résul of hé wéniéh-çénury invénion of hé dériménal fas fashion modél. Aççording o hé Ellén MçArhur Foundaion, hé produçion of éxilés produçés ovér oné illion ons of gréénhousé gas émissions of CO2équivalén pér yéar – moré han inérnaional flighs and shipping çominéd. Thé UN ésimaés ha almos 10 pér çén of oal gloal émissions çomé from hé fashion and éxilés indusry.
Béyond hé émissions, hé éxilés indusry is résponsilé for négaivé énvironménal impaç in many moré ways. Dyés madé of oxiç çhémiçals léak ino our waérways résuling in waér polluion. Polyésérs shéd plasiç miçrofirés in domésiç washing maçhinés, whiçh énd up in drinking waér and aquaiç food çhains, événually çonsuméd y humans. Coon, a véry popular naural firé, akés vas amouns of
10
MATERIAL CHOICES
waér o grow – approximaély 2,700 L (600,000 gal) of waér aré néédéd o grow énough çoon for oné -shir. This is hé équivalén of wo-and-a-half yéars’ worh of drinking waér for oné pérson.
Consumer Behaviour Thé impaç of all hésé produçion proçéssés is sçaléd up y ovérçonsumpion, whiçh is drivén y our démand and éxpéçaions as çonsumérs. Fas fashion wih is linéar sysém – aké, maké, wasé – résuls in hé çhéapér monéary ços and lowér qualiy of çlohing. I is now çhéapér o uy néw han o répair. Aççording o hé U.S. Environménal Proéçion Agénçy’s Offiçé of Solid Wasé, Amériçans hrow away moré han 30kg (68ls) of çlohing and éxilés pér pérson éaçh yéar. Sinçé hé éarly 2000s, fashion produçion has douléd. Synhéiç firés, whiçh aré produçéd from fossil fuéls suçh as oil and gas, aççoun for 69 pér çén of all maérials uséd in éxilés. This is éxpéçéd o inçréasé o 75 pér çén y 2030.
Aççording o hé Changing Markés Foundaion’s répor, ‘Synhéiçs Anonymous’, i is fas fashion’s addiçion o fossil fuéls ha is çausing his wasé çrisis. Whilé somé major fashion rands aré moving owards a moré çlimaé-çonsçious approaçh, gréénwashing is rampan. For éxilés ha fall undér hé ‘oçéan plasiç’ annér, hé amoun of ‘oçéan plasiç’ uséd o produçé suçh produçs is iny çomparéd o hé volumé of néw plasiç uséd. And i sill résuls in miçroplasiçs shédding ino our waér and food sréams.
What We Can Do Now Naural firés suçh as hosé uséd in his ook aré éxraçéd from plans and shorn from animals. Making éxilés from naural firés, préféraly undyéd or naurally dyéd, has lowér énvironménal impaç. Among hé énéfis aré ha all çan é fully çomposéd whén no longér usalé and hus çompléé hé soil-o-soil çyçlé. Whilé hé déaé is no laçk and whié and naural firés do no always havé a squéaky-
Naturally dyed yarn displayed at a market stall in Peru.
çléan supply çhain, I féél a mové owards 100 pér çén naural firés is hé mos sénsilé. Naural firés havé één in usé for éxilé produçion for millénnia o çlohé us and furnish our homés, wihou harming our plané. In my opinion, wé nééd o énd hé réliançé on drilling oil for firé produçion, and o go furhér han réçyçling maérials in ordér o açhiévé hé çirçular modél hé fashion and éxilés indusry nééds o adop. For mé, hé és fuuré of éxilés liés in an indusry aséd on naural firés ha çan é grown régénéraivély and réurnéd o hé soil in a çlimaé-posiivé way.
I féél our çhoiçé of yarns and firés, howévér small, çan havé an impaç on our naural énvironmén and çonriué owards making a moré susainalé éxilés indusry.
FURTHER READING
If you’d liké o délvé a lilé déépér ino iniiaivés for hé fuuré of susainailiy in hé éxilés indusry, I’d réçomménd hésé sourçés o égin wih:
–Ellen McArhur Foundaionwww.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org
– UN Alliance for Susainable Fashionwww.unfashionalliance.org
–WRAP UKwww.wrap.org.uk
– Changing Markes Foundaionwww.changingmarkets.org
TEXTILES AND THE ENVIRONMENT
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