Xi an Famous Foods
272 pages
English

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272 pages
English

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Description

The long-awaited cookbook from an iconic New York restaurant, revealing never-before-published recipes Since its humble opening in 2005, Xi'an Famous Foods has expanded from one stall in Flushing to 14 locations in Manhattan, Brooklyn, and Queens. CEO Jason Wang divulges the untold story of how this empire came to be, alongside the never-before-published recipes that helped create this New York City icon. From heavenly ribbons of liang pi doused in a bright vinegar sauce to iatbread i?lled with caramelized pork to cumin lamb over hand-pulled Biang Biang noodles, this cookbook helps home cooks make the dishes that fans of Xi'an Famous Foods line up for while also exploring the vibrant cuisine and culture of Xi'an. Transporting readers to the streets of Xi'an and the kitchens of New York's Chinatown, Xi'an Famous Foods is the cookbook that fans of Xi'an Famous Foods have been waiting for.

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Informations

Publié par
Date de parution 13 octobre 2020
Nombre de lectures 0
EAN13 9781647000080
Langue English
Poids de l'ouvrage 12 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,1322€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

Extrait

CONTENTS
INTRODUCTION
1 | The Original Track
Laying the Foundations in Xi an
2 | The Remix
Making It Work in Middle-of-Nowhere America
3 | The Throwback
Finding a New Place to Call Home
4 | The Grind
Making It in NYC
5 | The Party
Work Hard, Play Hard
6 | The Homecoming
Rediscovering Xi an
7 | The (Bitter)sweet Stuff
Our Past and Our Present
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
INDEX
Recipe List
1 THE ORIGINAL TRACK
How to Cook Rice
Five Rules to Boiling Noodles
Roasted Sesame Seeds
Red Chili Powder
Garlic Puree
XFF Chili Oil
Bone Broth
XFF Noodle Sauce
XFF Liang Pi Sauce
XFF Dumpling Sauce
Daily Bread
Longevity Noodles
Liang Pi Cold Skin Noodles and Seitan : What It Is and How to Make It
Biang-Biang (or Hand-Ripped) Noodles
Hot Oil-Seared Biang-Biang Noodles
How to Serve Anything over Rice
How to Make Anything as a Burger
How to Serve Anything with Noodles
How to Serve Anything with Noodles in Soup
2 THE REMIX
Makeshift Vinegar
XFF Ramen
Fried Chicken Wings with XFF Spices
Fiddlehead Fern Salad
Hot-and-Sour Soup
Brussels Sprouts with Shrimp Sauce
Blistered Tiger Shishito Peppers
Five-Flavor Beef Shank
Pork Juan Bing
Pineapple Chicken
Hong Shao Red Braised Spareribs
Beef Stew with Potatoes
Pork Zha Jiang
Zha Jiang Noodles with Wasabi
3 THE THROWBACK
STARTER SALADS
Spicy and Sour Carrot Salad
Julienned Potato Salad
Spicy Asian Cucumber Salad
Seitan Salad
DUMPLINGS
Dumpling Skin Dough
Spinach Dumpling Skin Dough
Spinach Dumpling Filling
Lamb Dumpling Filling
Pork and Chives Dumpling Filling
Pot Stickers
XFF Spicy and Sour Dumplings
XFF Spicy and Sour Dumplings in Soup
Eggs and Tomatoes
Dry Pot Chicken
Twice-Cooked Pork Belly
Beef and Ginkgo Congee
THE HOT POT
Spicy and Tingly Hot Pot Broth
Herbal Hot Pot Broth
4 THE GRIND
Tiger Vegetables Salad
Lamb Meat Soup
Lamb Pao-Mo Soup
Liang Pi Cold Skin Noodles
Stir-Fried Liang Pi Cold Skin Noodles
Concubine s Chicken
Spicy and Tingly Beef
Stewed Pork
Spicy Cumin Lamb
Mt. Qi Pork
Mt. Qi Vegetables
Stewed Oxtail
5 THE PARTY
Spicy and Tingly Lamb Face Salad
Stewed Lamb Spine
SKEWERS
XFF Spicy and Tingly Sauce
Homemade Green Onion Oil
Spicy and Tingly Boiled Bean Curd Sheet Skewers
Spicy and Tingly Boiled Beef Tripe Skewers
Spicy Cumin Fish Tofu Skewers
Spicy Cumin Buns
Spicy Cumin Chicken Skewers
Spicy Cumin Chicken Wing Skewers
Spicy Cumin Chicken Heart Skewers
Spicy Cumin Chicken Gizzard Skewers
Spicy Cumin Beef Skewers
Spicy Cumin Beef Tendon Skewers
Spicy Cumin Pig Intestines Skewers
Spicy Cumin Lamb Skewers
Spicy Cumin Squid Skewers
Spicy Cumin Whole Fish
Fresh Watermelon Soju Cocktail
Green Tea and Hennessy
Yogurt-Flavored Soju Cocktail
Fruit Plate
6 THE HOMECOMING
Spicy Steamed Potato Hash
Spinach Cakes
Hoolah Soup
Beef Xiao Chao Pao-Mo Soup
Little Fish in Celery Broth
Spicy and Sour Mung Bean Jelly
Five Nuts and Seeds Chowder
Sesame Liang Pi Cold Skin Noodles
Hong Shao Braised Striped Bass
Iron Pot Lamb Stew
Steamed Celery Bites
Steamed Rice-Coated Lamb
West Fu Pretzels
7 THE (BITTER)SWEET STUFF
Hard-Candied Fruits on a Stick
Sweet Soup with White Wood Ear Mushrooms
Mountain Yam with Osmanthus Syrup
Candy Silk Sweet Potatoes
Sweet Fermented Rice Soup
Tangyuan (with Sesame or Hawberry Filling)
Chilled Rice Cake with Honey
Zeng Gao Rice Cake
Eight Treasures Congee
Layered Rice Cake
Introduction

A YOUNG JASON IN CHINA, PREPARING FOR HIS ADVENTURE ABROAD.
If you re a food fan in New York City, you might already know a bit about the Xi an 1 Famous foods story. It goes a little like this: In the winter of 2005, a hardworking immigrant named David Shi (aka my dad) opened a shop in Flushing, New York, to sell boba , or bubble tea-you know, those chewy tapioca pearls plopped into a mixture of sugar, powdered tea, and water, sometimes with flavored syrup for that fake mango taste. But in New York City, even back then, bubble tea shops were a dime a dozen, and competition was fierce. So my dad, ever the hustler, pivoted. He rented a tiny little space and started selling the food of our hometown: Xi an, China.
The rest, as they say, is history. Word on the street started to spread about the man in a tiny basement stall banging out noodles and other cheap street eats rarely seen this side of the Pacific. We re talking chewy, cold ribbons of liang pi doused in a spicy, bright vinegar sauce, fresh-pulled biang-biang noodles with a heat so intense it makes you sweat, and caramelized pork stuffed between flatbread, easy enough to eat with one hand while swiping your MTA card, running to catch the next train. Customers took notice, and the food soon outsold the boba. People were lining up to scarf down the noodles, slurping up the leftover sauce just to make sure they didn t waste a single drop. Then, the camera crews showed up. Anthony Bourdain dropped by, as did Andrew Zimmern, along with the food bloggers of Chowhound and Serious Eats, New York magazine and the New York Times . And then, more camera crews, more food bloggers, more celebrities. The cycle continued; business boomed. Lines stretched around the basement food court, up the stairs, and around the street corner. Expansion seemed like a no-brainer, so after college, I signed on to helm the XFF empire, putting the dishes of my childhood on America s culinary map like never before.
It s a good story. But like most American dreams, the beginnings of Xi an Famous Foods started long before that.
Our first stop, of course, is in Xi an, a dry, dusty city in northwestern China. In the past, it held a coveted status as the capital of multiple ancient Chinese dynasties, and as the start of the Silk Road, Xi an became an epicenter of trade that connected China with the Middle East, bringing an influx of people into the city-and their food. While coastal cities like Guangzhou and Fuzhou developed regional dishes with crab, shrimp, and fish, Xi an took on the flavors and ingredients of western China and the Middle East. This meant gamey lamb, not often seen in some regions of China, and earthy spices like cardamom and star anise. This is my city of fiery desert food, and this is where I m born. On weekdays, I m playing hide-and-seek in (seemingly) cavernous apartment complexes, eating lamb soup dotted with broken-up bits of bread for lunch. On weekends, I m sitting on my dad s bicycle handlebars, riding to the street markets where shop owners peddle stick-skinny skewers and rou jia mou (burgers).
I see charcoal smoke and smell spicy cumin lamb and eat rough, ragged street noodles swimming in bright red chili, my senses on overload, tingling from peppercorn.
But then we do a full 180. When I m eight years old, my parents announce a move to America for a better education, a better future. I m excited, expecting annual trips to Disneyland and a magical elixir known as hot chocolate (Starbucks hadn t made it to Xi an just yet). We re dropped into the snowy woods of Michigan, and I see my childhood of concrete and smoke replaced with cookie-cutter houses, painted red and blue and yellow, with porches and lawns and the tallest oak and evergreen trees I d ever seen. My life turns into a coming to America reel. In one scene, my mom and I stare open-mouthed at a tiny Asian food section at our local grocery store. In another, we re trying to defrost imitation crab and mixing white vinegar with soy sauce, hoping to re-create the complex black vinegar of home. In a third, we re bribing a family friend, Uncle Feng, to drive three hours to the closest major city for cumin and some actually decent soy sauce. I have my first taste of hot chocolate, and it s overwhelmingly, sickeningly sweet.
Our family lasts three years in Michigan before we take off for the suburbs of Connecticut-another promise of a better education, a better future. I enroll in a Catholic middle school and become a latchkey kid while my parents work multiple jobs to make ends meet. I roll out of bed, walk to school, let the racist jokes roll off my back. Come back to an empty home, heat up some dinner from the freezer, chat aimlessly on AIM, watch The Simpsons until bed. My dad s working weeks at a time at random Chinese restaurants all across the East Coast, jumping ship from Pennsylvania to New Jersey to Maryland. He s cooking sweet-and-sour pork, beef and broccoli, fried rice with too much soy sauce-the type of Americanized Chinese food we d never eat at home. Every few months, he shows up at our doorstep, having been fired because his boss can t stand him, or quit his latest gig because he can t stand his boss. My mom s taking on odd jobs here and there, whatever she can get, and leaving me notes to find the hong shao rou in the freezer, the dumplings ready to be boiled for dinner.
Once a month, we head to Flushing, New York, filled with people who look kind of like me and walk and talk kind of like me. Sometimes you ll hear Mandarin and Cantonese on the streets, and sometimes you ll hear Fujianese and Shanghainese, with different cadences and tones and accents that are gibberish in my brain. Still, there are grocery stores with vegetables I recognize, barbers who actually know how to cut my east Asian hair well, and shops where you can buy snacks like chicken feet marinated in chili oil, doled out in vacuum-sealed plastic bags. But there s nothing that tastes like the charcoal and fire and cumin of Xi an cuisine-yet.
Even when we move to Queens for my high school (same deal: better education, better future), I feel like an outsider. Sure, there are more Asian Americans, but I don t live in a house like everyone else and don t have family meals. My dad s barely home; he s chasing every extra hundred dollars, even if it means washing dishes for ten hours straight at some buffet restaurant two hour

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