Tom Fitzmorris's New Orleans Food (Revised and Expanded Edition) , livre ebook

ABRAMS BOOKS - Fitzmorris Tom

Découvre YouScribe en t'inscrivant gratuitement

Je m'inscris

Obtenez un accès à la bibliothèque pour le consulter en ligne
En savoir plus

374 pages

English

Vous pourrez modifier la taille du texte de cet ouvrage

Obtenez un accès à la bibliothèque pour le consulter en ligne
En savoir plus

A propos
Informations
Extrait

Description

Tom Fitzmorris is uniquely qualified to write about the food of New Orleans. Born in the Crescent City on Mardi Gras, he has been eating, celebrating, and writing about the food in his favorite town for more than thirty years. Just after Hurricane Katrina, Fitzmorris put the finishing touches on his collection of recipes for the best of New Orleans food, gathered and developed during his tenure as the Big Easys resident foodie.Now, three years after the release of New Orleans Food, Fitzmorris revisits his magnum opus to coincide with the publication of his memoir, Hungry Town. This expanded edition features 25 delicious new recipes steeped in the towns Creole and Cajun traditions yet updated to reflect contemporary tastes and ingredients. Whether youre nostalgic for the taste of New Orleans or simply love good food, New Orleans Food should find a place on your cookbook shelf.

Sujets

TV

Televisión

Television

Cooking

Informations

Publié par	ABRAMS BOOKS
Date de parution	20 février 2018
Nombre de lectures	0
EAN13	9781613127964
Langue	English
Poids de l'ouvrage	2 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,1014€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

Extrait

Published in 2010 by Stewart, Tabori Chang An imprint of ABRAMS
Copyright 2010 by Tom Fitzmorris
All rights reserved. No portion of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, mechanical, electronic, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without written permission from the publisher.
The Library of Congress has cataloged the original edition as follows:
Fitzmorris, Tom, 1951-
Tom Fitzmorris s [sic] New Orleans food : more than 225 of the city s best recipes to cook at home / by Tom Fitzmorris.
p. cm.
Includes bibliographical references and index.
ISBN 1-58479-524-7
1. Cookery, American-Louisiana style. 2. Cookery-Louisiana-New Orleans. I. Title: New Orleans food. II. Title: Tom Fitzmorris s New Orleans food. III. Title: Tom Fitzmorris New Orleans food. IV. Title.
TX715.2.L68F584 2006 641.59763-dc22
2005030811
ISBN for this edition: 978-1-58479-876-7
Produced for Stewart, Tabori Chang by gonzalez defino New York, New York www.gonzalezdefino.com EDITORIAL DIRECTOR Joseph Gonzalez ART DIRECTOR Perri DeFino EDITOR Julia Lee COPYEDITOR Marilyn Knowlton
PRODUCTION MANAGER Jane Searle
Stewart, Tabori Chang books are available at special discounts when purchased in quantity for premiums and promotions as well as fundraising or educational use. Special editions can also be created to specification. For details, contact specialsales@abramsbooks.com or the address below.

115 West 18th Street New York, NY 10011 www.abramsbooks.com
Contents
Author s Note
Foreword by Emeril Lagasse
Introduction
Amuse-Bouche
Appetizers
Gumbos, Bisques, and Other Soups
Shellfish Entr es
Finfish Entr es
Meat
Chicken, Duck, and Other Birds
Outdoor Grill
Red Beans, Rice, Vegetables, and Pasta
Salads
Casual Food
Breakfast
Desserts and Baked Goods
Drinks
Roux, Seasonings, Sauces, and Other Building Blocks
Ingredients Notes
Food Sources
Conversion Chart
Index of Searchable Terms
Author s Note
O n Monday, August 29, 2005, one of the most vital and important capitals of the culinary world came to a complete and abrupt halt. Hurricane Katrina, the most destructive storm in the history of the United States, shut down all of the restaurants in New Orleans and those within a hundred miles in every direction. The population of the entire metropolitan area-about a million and a half people-was told to evacuate.
The storm did unimaginable damage to the Mississippi Gulf Coast, destroying man-made structures right down to roads and slabs. In New Orleans, the damage from the storm s winds was less severe. But the storm came in at the perfect angle to blow a deluge of water from Lake Pontchartrain through breaks in the levees into the city. The levees had always protected the city before, but they d never faced a storm like this one. Eighty percent of the city was flooded, in some places more than 10 feet deep. Hundreds of people died, and many were displaced.
I m writing this note three weeks after the storm. About half of the city is still flooded as the world s largest drainage pumping station labors to send the water back to where it came from. Most of the area is still evacuated. No restaurants have reopened, although many of them are making plans, usually for weeks to months from now.
I am still in evacuation myself. I know that my home is okay and that my family is safe. So I m better off than a substantial percentage of my fellow Orleanians, many of whom are in temporary shelters in cities across America. My worst problem is that my occupation since college-writing and broadcasting about New Orleans restaurants and food-is, at best, compromised.
I can t stand to do nothing. So while waiting to return, I put the finishing touches on this collection of what I think are the best recipes from my three decades of reporting on Creole and Cajun cuisines. Until our city is healthy again, I will donate half (or more, if we really sell a lot of books) of my profits from this edition to the recovery effort. Thank you for helping with that.
I dedicate this book to all the people who love great New Orleans food.
Tastefully yours,

September 19, 2005
Foreword
O n the day before we officially opened Emeril s in New Orleans-my first restaurant-we served dinner to a full house of friends. It was our dress rehearsal for the real thing. Tom Fitzmorris was there, with his wife and their one-year-old baby boy.
I first met Tom eight years before that. I was the new chef at Commander s Palace. He was the person you thought of when somebody said restaurant critic in New Orleans. Dick and Ella Brennan ran Commander s then and invited him to anything special we had going on. Eventually Dick started having dinners once a month with Tom and our mutual friend Marcelle Bienvenu.
We had a lot of fun with those dinners because nothing we could throw at that table would be considered too far out. Tom especially was game to try anything, and then he would want to know where the idea came from, how we cooked it, and even how much it cost to put the dish together.
I noticed something else about Tom s interest in food. The more something tasted like a New Orleans dish, the better he liked it. I feel that way, too. I say that if we re going to be in New Orleans, we re going to cook with fresh Louisiana ingredients with a Creole and Cajun flavor. We kick it up a notch with the flavors of the world, but if you asked me what kind of food we serve in New Orleans, I d say we serve New Orleans food.
It didn t surprise me when, in addition to his restaurant reviews, Tom started writing about cooking. Every person who likes to eat sooner or later heads for the kitchen and starts playing around. Now here he is with a cookbook. I love the title. New Orleans Food is what he s all about, and he knows it as well as anybody.
Especially in this tender, bruised time in the history of that marvelous city, we need to celebrate the uniqueness of New Orleans cuisine. It makes me smile to know that the first things everybody wanted after the hurricane were red beans and rice, poor boys, and gumbo. It told me that New Orleans is still New Orleans. I m happy to be there, and I m happy to see its best reporter on the subject of eating is still at it.
Introduction
This is a collection of the best dishes that I accumulated during my ridiculously long tenure as a New Orleans restaurant critic. Researching a weekly column for 33 years and a daily three-hour radio food show for 17 years, I ve tried, loved, endured, and remembered thousands of dishes. I ve learned how to cook the ones I liked best-and here they are.
The cooking part of my career came well after the eating part. Although that was an accident, I would recommend that progression to anyone enthusiastic about food. First, learn how to eat well. That done, learn how to cook. If that moves you, develop the skill to anticipate what might taste good if you experiment a little.
It s certainly been a lot of fun for me.
Many of the dishes herein come from my persistent infatuation with New Orleans restaurants. But these are not restaurant recipes. All of them have passed through my kitchen, usually more than once, before they made it into print. I m not saying that I know better than the chefs do. Just that restaurant recipes rarely translate well into the home kitchen. So, in every case, I took liberties with the original recipes in order to make the dish taste the way I think it should.
That process is what started me cooking in the first place. I wanted to eat things that restaurants wouldn t or couldn t serve me. I had no formal training, and my equipment was poor. But I did possess what I think is the most important ability a cook can have: I knew how the final product should look and taste. With that, it was only a matter of experimenting until I got it right.
This is the great advantage of being able to cook. It gives you the ability to create dishes exactly to your own taste. I encourage you to do that by using these recipes as a starting point and adjusting them to your own pleasure.
T HE H ERITAGE S TYLE
My favorite cuisines are those I grew up with: Creole and Cajun. New Orleans food. I admit also to a preference for dishes whose tastes ring familiar notes. Although innovative dishes are fun to write about, few of them persist into the next season. That s because they appeal more to the mind than to the palate. And one of the hallmarks of the New Orleans palate is that it is not easily fooled by public relations.
On the other hand, the young, adventuresome chefs that inspired our restaurants during the last 20 years have added much to our pleasure. We now have a far greater variety and quality of foodstuffs to cook with than we did a decade or more ago. Not only can you buy fresh foie gras and fresh chanterelle mushrooms now, but almost every avid diner knows what they taste like.
This is also true of current cooking methods. While deep-frying is still the default technique in most New Orleans restaurants, chefs and diners have found that many dishes formerly fried are much better grilled, seared, or broiled.
I tell you all this to answer a question so obvious that I ve asked it myself: Do we really need another new version of gumbo, bread pudding, or oysters Rockefeller with all the hundreds of recipes for those dishes already out there?
Yes, we do. Creole cooking evolves. Gumbo is much thicker and spicier than it was 20 years ago. We cook with ingredients unavailable back when. That s one of the ways in which I ve adapted the recipes here. They re written with the latter-day food cornucopia in mind.
And tastes have changed. When I started writing about food, dishes like veal Oscar were everywhere. Now the idea of covering veal (or fish or chicken or softshell crabs) with gloppy sauces riddled with crabmeat and crawfish seems excessive.
W HAT I S N EW O RLEANS F OOD ?
Early