Peranakan Kitchen , livre ebook

Marshall Cavendish International - Philip Chia

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155 pages

English

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The Peranakans are the descendants of early Chinese immigrants who settled in the Malay Archipelago and married local women. They are well known for their prowess in the kitchen, where they draw from Chinese and Malay culinary traditions and pepper their food with influences from the Indians, Thais, Portuguese, Dutch and British. The result of this fusion is a repertoire of dishes that are aromatic, moreish and unique. In this collection, renowned Peranakan chef Philip Chia takes you into the kitchen and guides you in the ways of his culinary heritage. From dishes that he grew up with, to newer creations that celebrate Peranakan flavours and ingredients, Philip's recipes are equal parts soul-stirring and exciting.

Sujets

Singapore

Cooking

Singapour

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Publié par	Marshall Cavendish International
Date de parution	04 mars 2020
Nombre de lectures	0
EAN13	9789814893497
Langue	English
Poids de l'ouvrage	6 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0700€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

Extrait

PHILIP CHIA

Dedication
To my late nanny and adoptive mother, Lim Lian Neo, who doted on me and taught me how to prepare the essential rempahs of Peranakan cooking.
To my dearest late Auntie Alice, my mak-ko , who taught me how to cook. I will always remember those lessons.
To my most treasured friends, late Baba Lee Eng Liang who shared with me many old and forgotten recipes; Baba Tan Kim Guan and Auntie Rosie Gwee for sharing their cooking tips and treasured recipes, especially for babi tohay .
It is a great privilege to have had them in my life to share their skills and impart their knowledge, which I now share with you. May this book be a reference point and a source of inspiration for you.
Philip Chia

Designer : Lynn Chin Photographer: Hongde Photography
Copyright 2012 Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited
First published 2012 as Peranakan Heritage Cooking Reprinted 2013
This new edition 2020 Published by Marshall Cavendish Cuisine An imprint of Marshall Cavendish International

All rights reserved
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior permission of the copyright owner. Requests for permission should be addressed to the Publisher, Marshall Cavendish International (Asia) Private Limited, 1 New Industrial Road, Singapore 536196. Tel: (65) 6213 9300 E-mail: genref@sg.marshallcavendish.com Website: www.marshallcavendish.com/genref
Limits of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: The Author and Publisher of this book have used their best efforts in preparing this book. The parties make no representation or warranties with respect to the contents of this book and are not

responsible for the outcome of any recipe in this book. While the parties have reviewed each recipe carefully, the reader may not always achieve the results desired due to variations in ingredients, cooking temperatures and individual cooking abilities. The parties shall in no event be liable for any loss of profit or any other commercial damage, including but not limited to special, incidental, consequential, or other damages.
Other Marshall Cavendish Offices: Marshall Cavendish Corporation, 99 White Plains Road, Tarrytown NY 10591- 9001, USA Marshall Cavendish International (Thailand) Co Ltd, 253 Asoke, 12th Flr, Sukhumvit 21 Road, Klongtoey Nua, Wattana, Bangkok 10110, Thailand Marshall Cavendish (Malaysia) Sdn Bhd, Times Subang, Lot 46, Subang Hi-Tech Industrial Park, Batu Tiga, 40000 Shah Alam, Selangor Darul Ehsan, Malaysia
Marshall Cavendish is a registered trademark of Times Publishing Limited
National Library Board, Singapore Cataloguing in Publication Data
Name(s): Chia, Philip, 1960-. Title: The Peranakan kitchen / Philip Chia. Description: New edition. | Singapore : Marshall Cavendish Cuisine, 2020. | First published 2012 as Peranakan heritage cooking --Title page verso. Identifier(s): OCN 1137177296 | e-ISBN: 978 981 4893 49 7 Subject(s): LCSH: Cooking, Peranakan. | Cooking, Singaporean. Classification: DDC 641.595957--dc23
Printed in Singapore
Contents

Foreword 7
Introduction 8
Basic Recipes 11
Vegetables Salads 13
Meat Poultry 29
Fish Seafood 63
Soups 93
Rice Noodles 107
Snacks Desserts 121
Menu Suggestions 146
Weights Measures 147
Glossary 149

Foreword

Perhaps nothing expresses better the soul of a community than its cooking. For the Peranakans, it is also perhaps one of the most expressive and engaging aspects of the living heritage. Many things may have been relegated to the past, but the cooking has been kept alive and continues to evolve, mainly because of the passion and dynamism of a younger generation of chefs and food writers, and naturally also because of the interest of the community and of the general public in the flavours of Peranakan food.
Peranakan cooking expresses and celebrates the exuberant hybridity that is central to Peranakan identity. Ever since the Portuguese colonial era, the southern Chinese communities in the port towns have been exposed to the lifestyles of the Malays from all over the archipelago, as well as of Europeans, Indians and Arabs, and over the centuries, it was impossible for these communities not to be influenced by the different cooking styles and ingredients. From China came sauces, bean curds, noodles and certain vegetables; from the islands came fragrant herbs, spices and roots. From India, there was the wide range of spice blends and methods of cooking, and from Europe, there was baking and a whole range of cakes and desserts, quaint colonial and Eurasian fusion recipes and dashes of Worcester sauce too. Not surprisingly, the Baba Malay vocabulary of ingredients is peppered with words of Arab, Portuguese, English, Dutch, Malay and Hokkien origins.
Perhaps the one characteristic of Peranakan cooking that may be called unique is the almost ridiculous number of steps required to put together a dish. Some have speculated that this was a way for a manipulative household matriarch to control her daughters and daughters-in-law. Today, shortcuts are taken by many modern chefs who claim there is little effect on the final product, although conservative cooks would disagree.
When I was young, the menus for different occasions were very specific. There were so many kinds of celebrations, at which different foods were served in order to avoid ill omens or inappropriate etiquette. Nowadays, such customs are no longer observed. However, to be honest, I never paid much attention to these things when I was young. Food for me was solely focused on my favourite meal: a fried egg on steaming hot rice with generous lashings of dark soy sauce and sliced fresh green chilli.
Philip Chia is a nephew of mine who grew up in a typical Peranakan household, where cooking was an important part of daily life. During my term as president of the Peranakan Association, he voluntarily contributed his expertise towards many successful events and has been active in promoting Peranakan cooking to the public. I am heartened that he is armed with the knowledge of traditional methods and yet engaged with contemporary tastes and demands, which allow him to bridge the past with the present. This book, comprising so many family recipes, is a wonderful addition to the large corpus of books on this unique and living aspect of Peranakan heritage.

Lee Kip Lee
Honorary Life President
The Peranakan Association Singapore
Introduction

The Peranakans are a Southeast Asian community that established itself in the colonial settlements of the 16th and 17th centuries. Purists are divided as to whether the term Peranakan denotes a race or a culture, but it refers generally to the descendants of the early Chinese immigrants who settled in the Malay archipelago, invariably taking native women as wives or concubines (as Chinese women were restricted from leaving the mainland until the late 19th century) and embracing local customs, all the while retaining much of their ancestral culture.
Peranakans themselves later on migrated within Malaysia, Indonesia and Singapore, which resulted in a high degree of cultural similarity of the people of these countries, as well as other farther-flung outposts of the Asia-Pacific region. As the main communities lived and engaged in trade primarily within the Straits Settlements (a British colonial construct of Singapore, Malacca, and Penang constituted in 1826), the Peranakans also came to be known as the Straits Chinese.
Long before fusion cuisine captured the imagination of the world, the Peranakans were blending Chinese ingredients and cooking techniques with the spices and native ingredients used by the indigenous Malays, over time establishing a repertoire of recipes avidly followed to this day.
Peranakan food is typically aromatic and spicy and features ingredients that include coconut milk, galangal, turmeric, candlenuts, laksa leaves, pandan leaves, tamarind pulp, lemongrass, chillies, shallots, basil and coriander. Asam gelugor , belimbing and mangoes were often added to deliver a tangy taste. Perhaps the food component most associated with the Peranakans is the buah keluak , the nut of the kepayang ( Pangium edule ) tree, which is poisonous if unprocessed. It is used to produce a rich sauce as an accompaniment to a range of meats.
There were regional variations in Peranakan cuisine throughout the Straits Settlements. Dishes in the northern part of Malaysia had notable Thai influences, such as the liberal use of tamarind ( asam ) and other sour ingredients, whereas dishes in the south showed a greater Indonesian influence, such as the use of coconut milk. The colonialists also made contributions to the Peranakan menu, with certain Anglo-Indian dishes becoming an intrinsic part of Peranakan cuisine, including mulligatawny soup, known as makatani in Malacca.

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Food also had religious and symbolic significance and many dishes were originally served only on special occasions. Rice was deliberately coloured yellow in the belief that this enhanced its life-giving qualities and rice dumplings were sometimes coloured red to encourage good fortune. Kueh lapis was a confection made up of multiple layers that symbolised the ladder of prosperity.
Without the modern appliances of today, Peranakan cooking in past centuries required time-consuming preparation and even here, there were conventions to be observed. Food had to be in bite-size morsels when served, as there were no knives in the Peranakan place settings. Cakes, fruit and vegetables had to be sliced diagonally. Peranakan women spent much effort and time perfecting their dishes and evolving their own versions of standard recipes that were then handed down to the next generation. The large number of family recipes in this collection reflect this tradition.
Basic Recipes
Chilli Chuk