Pheasant Keeping for Amateurs; A Practical Handbook on the Breeding, Rearing, and General Management of Aviary Pheasants , livre ebook

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58 pages

English

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Originally published in 1887, this book comprises a detailed guide to setting up and maintaining a routine of management for the successful rearing of pheasants. Written in clear, simple language and full of handy tips, “Pheasant Keeping For Amateurs” represents a timeless guide for all with a practical interest in the subject of keeping wildfowl for pleasure or sport. This volume was originally written with the novice in mind, making it ideal for modern readers who are just starting out. Many vintage books such as this are increasingly scarce and expensive. It is with this in mind that we are republishing this volume now in an affordable, modern, high-quality edition complete with a specially-commissioned new introduction on wildfowl.

Sujets

Birds

Pets

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Publié par	Read Books Ltd.
Date de parution	24 mars 2011
Nombre de lectures	0
EAN13	9781446548110
Langue	English

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0500€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

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P HEASANT K EEPING FOR AMATEURS:
A PRACTICAL HANDBOOK ON THE BREEDING, REARING, AND GENERAL MANAGEMENT OF AVIARY PHEASANTS.
______
BY
GEORGE HORNE.
______
ILLUSTRATED.
______
LONDON :
L. UPCOTT GILL, 170, STRAND, W.C.
CONTENTS.
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I. I NTRODUCTION
II. A VIARIES AND C OOPS
III. B REEDING
IV. R EARING
V. T HE G OLD P HEASANT
VI. T HE S ILVER P HEASANT
VII. T HE L ADY A MHERST P HEASANT
VIII. T HE S WINHOE P HEASANT
IX. T HE S CEMMERRING P HEASANT
X. T HE R EEVES ' P HEASANT
XI. T HE S IAMESE F IREBACK P HEASANT
XII. T HE E LLIOT P HEASANT
XIII. T HE V ERSICOLOR, OR J APANESE P HEASANT
XIV. T HE P EACOCK P HEASANT
XV. T HE I MPEYAN P HEASANT
XVI. T HE C OMMON P HEASANT
XVII. T HE C HINESE P HEASANT
XVIII. C ROSSES, AND I MPORTING S PECIMENS
XIX D ISEASES, &C
XX. C ATCHING B IRDS , P ACKING , &A
XXI. A W ALK R OUND M Y A VIARIES
PREFACE.
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Of all the birds inhabiting these Islands, there is probably no bird that causes its owners the amount of care, trouble, and anxiety that the Common Pheasant does, no other bird affording the same amount of sport, and, I may add, causing so much poaching and misery. These remarks apply principally to our old variety; but during recent times, intercourse with other countries, and rapid means of transit, have enabled us to add to this one solitary variety numerous of the gorgeous pheasants of other climes, for the most part even far handsomer than our bird, and with constitutions hardy enough to stand our severest winters.
For many years I have been a most enthusiastic admirer of all pheasants, each year breeding several varieties, frequently in considerable number, and always on the look-out for any fresh introductions. I have corresponded with many others on the subject, collecting all the information possible, and have bought, sold, and exchanged, so as always to keep my stock at the very highest pitch of perfection; and the result of these experiences I now submit in the following pages, which I have endeavoured to render as explicit as possible.
I have never been a game-preserver in the common acceptation of the word; but if I were, the height of my ambition would be to see a score or two of those truly majestic birds, Reeves' (an adult male is fully 6ft. long), feeding from the home coverts towards my windows; he is an ornament to any grounds, and as easy to rear as a chicken.
GEORGE HORNE.

H EREFORD.
A VIARY P HEASANTS.

CHAPTER I.
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INTRODUCTION.
Adaptability of Pheasants for Breeding and Rearing in Towns The Best Varieties Gold Pheasants : Beauty of; Keeping in the Open No great Expense needed Plan of Work.
Probably there is no greater attraction in the grounds of a country house than a good collection of foreign pheasants; but it is not everyone who has a country house, and one of the chief merits of these birds is that, although they add greatly to the beauties of our gardens, still they may be kept by town residents, and even in the very limited space of most suburban houses some of our most beautiful varieties may be bred and reared. Take, for instance, the Gold and the Lady Amherst, two of the best. A small, lean-to shed, with a little inclosure the whole, not more, say, than 6ft. by 12ft. is ample for a pair.
As regards Gold, those persons who do not wish to breed them can always have a lovely pen of birds at a very moderate cost, by buying young cocks and letting them come to full plumage in their own aviaries. By so doing, they will have birds challenging the admiration of all. I generally have twenty, sometimes twenty-five, adult cocks In one aviary, and they are a glorious sight, with their almost ceaseless motions, as they dance round each other, first displaying their tippet or collar on one side and then on the other. These birds I keep in an open aviary in fact, it is one of my large portable ones; it is placed in the carriage drive, exposed to every weather, and in a very cold situation, the ground being on the banks of the Wye, and facing hills which, from October, 1885, for nine months, were, I believe, not one week without snow. The birds roost in the open, and I am frequently amused by being asked "how I take them in of a night," &c. People seem to think that, because they are Chinese birds, they must be natives of a hot climate, and unable to bear cold, forgetting that there is plenty of cold as well as heat in China. I think that, bringing up birds as I do, and not coddling them, I get the "survival of the fittest;" in other words, my stock is strong and robust. As a matter of fact, I seldom lose a bird except from accident.
Much may be done with very small means. It was upwards of twenty years ago when I first commenced breeding Gold pheasants; my space was very limited, but I contrived to rear a great many birds, and to prove the fallacy of what was then believed, viz., that birds of a year old would not breed. After a time, I purchased a pair of Lady Amhersts, giving £16 for them. I believe I was one of the earliest to breed these elegant birds, and for some years Ig was most successful. Next I went in for Reeves', Versicolors, Swinhoes, Firebacks, Impeyans, Peacocks, and lastly for our most recent importation, and the rarest and the handsomest of all, the Elliot.
In the following chapters I propose to give, as explicitly as possible, the plan I adopt for rearing and keeping the several varieties. The best forms of aviaries, setting-boxes, coops, runs or inclosures, the general management, &c., will be fully treated. After that, I intend to describe the most popular varieties, and to indicate any special treatment they require.
I take it for granted that few persons would think of commencing pheasant-breeding later than June. I do not say a pair of Gold pheasants, for example, obtained as late as that, would not breed, but the chances are greatly against their doing so. It is recommended to obtain the birds early in the spring, and not to defer it till the season is far advanced, for the birds then never settle down so well.
CHAPTER II.
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AVIARIES AND COOPS.
Permanent Aviaries; Soil on which to Erect; Shape and Dimensions; Drainage; Plants for; Perches; Cleaning; Water Hardiness of Pheasants Portable Aviaries; Dimensions; Cost Portable Aviaries for Young Birds Coops : Advantages of Bottom Boards in; Changing Soiled Boards.
P ERMANENT A VIARIES .
There is no doubt that the best soil for permanent aviaries is a dry gravel, and about the worst a stiff clay. Much will depend on purse and taste of the fancier, and the situation available. There is no better form of aviary than that of an ordinary shed, with span roof (see Fig. 1 ); it can be made as ornamental as you please. Make the back 6ft. high, the front the same, 12ft. back to front, and 12ft. wide; this is a good size for such birds as are usually kept in aviaries. Put a span roof over this, sloping to back and front; board the back and the top half of the front, and put netting over the rest, so that only one quarter of the roof is open, and that the lower front portion; felt the whole of the boarding, and well tar. I have left it to choice whether the aviary have a brick back say a garden wall or be weather-boarded. If you can put both back and front on brick footing, all the better. It is desirable that there should be a drain in front merely a dug-out pit, with brick sides and grating; no rats can then work up the drain, and the water will soak away. If you have a high back wall, the roof may slope from back to front. On the front footing put light upright quarterings, 2ft. 8in. apart, centre to centre; the wall plate rests on them. Wire with 2ft. 6in. netting, lin. mesh. If the netting is run lengthways, the rafters may be wider apart. The doors should each be about 2ft. wide. Board the front at bottom with two nin. boards, and fill above them with netting; this prevents cats and dogs being seen. The wire partitions between the aviaries may be of larger mesh, but should be boarded about 2ft. high at bottom, to prevent the cocks fighting.

Plant shrubs and creepers in front, to break the wind. For the interior, dig out all the soil for 6in., and fill in with concrete; above this place rough gravel, with fine sand on top. By this means you never have tainted ground. All impurities get washed out into the drain, if that is properly laid. Occasionally, remove all the gravel, &c, and replace it with clean. This, bear in mind, is for permanent aviaries only. Creepers can be run over the wires. There is nothing better than some of the large-leaved ivy, as it throws off the wet, and is also evergreen, so that the aviary looks well all the year round.
Perches are best made out of deal quartering, 2in. by 2in., with the edges run off; this does not split. Oak and ash poles split, and the birds lose their claws in them. Pheasants generally select the highest perch to roost on, but they prefer a very wide board or cill probably it is less fatiguing than a perch. Between the aviaries have doors rising and falling in grooves, such as is usual in fowl-houses. These you should be able to raise with a string outside, and, if you have one empty aviary, you can in turn change all your birds, and clean all the aviaries without disturbing them. This is a decided advantage. You may plant shrubs if you like, but then, of course, you cannot have concrete floors. There must be plenty of dry, fine sand in a corner for the dust-bath, and old mortar where the birds lay.
Nothing tends more to the healthfulness of the birds than changing their aviaries and cleaning them out, well raking the surface, and adding a little fine gravel or coarse sand. If your floors are not of concrete, you must dig them up roughly, add a little lime, and let the aviaries lie empty awhile.
Erect as many aviaries as you require, all in a row, and let them face south-east to south, if possible.
Do not fear that the birds will die of