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739 pages

English

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A HANDBOOK OF WEAVES. Originally published in 1911. An extremely practical and comprehensive handbook consisting of the principles and methods used to produce a huge range of different styles of weaves. Many of the earliest books on weaving, textiles and needlework, particularly those dating back to the 1900s and before, are now extremely scarce and increasingly expensive. We are republishing these classic works in affordable, high quality, modern editions, using the original text and artwork.

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Publié par	Read Books Ltd.
Date de parution	01 décembre 2020
Nombre de lectures	3
EAN13	9781528761697
Langue	English
Poids de l'ouvrage	20 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0500€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

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A HANDBOOK OF WEAVES
BY
G. H. OELSNER
DIRECTOR OF THE WEAVING SCHOOL AT WERDAU
TRANSLATED AND REVISED
BY
SAMUEL S. DALE
T O W HICH THE T RANSLATOR HAS A DDED A S UPPLEMENT ON THE A NALYSIS OF W EAVES AND F ABRICS
WITH 1875 ILLUSTRATIONS
New York THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 1915
Alt rights reserved
Copyright 2013 Read Books Ltd.
This book is copyright and may not be reproduced or copied in any way without the express permission of the publisher in writing
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data
A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library
A History of Textiles and Weaving
A textile or cloth is a flexible woven material consisting of a network of natural or artificial fibres, often referred to as thread or yarn . Yarn is produced by spinning raw fibres of wool, flax, cotton, or other material to produce long strands. Textiles are then in turn, formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, or pressing fibres together (felt). The words fabric and cloth are used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile . However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. Textile refers to any material made of interlacing fibres. Fabric refers to any material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, crocheting, or bonding that may be used in production of further goods (garments, etc.). And finally, Cloth may be used synonymously with fabric but often refers to a finished piece of fabric used for a specific purpose (e.g., table cloth ).
The word textile comes from Latin, textilis , meaning woven (from textus , the past participle of the verb texere , to weave ). From ancient origins, the production of textiles has altered almost beyond recognition however. Industrialisation and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques have changed both the working methods - speed and scale, and the end product itself. For some types of textiles though; plain weave, twill, or satin weave, there is little difference between the ancient and modern methods. Textile production has been evidenced as early as Neolithic times. In 2013, linen cloth was found at the atalh y k site (Turkey), dated at around 700 BCE. Another fragment has been found in Fayum (a city in middle Egypt), dated to about 5000 BCE. Flax was the predominant fibre in Egypt at this time (3600 BCE), hugely popular in the Nile Valley, though wool became the primary fibre used in other cultures around 2000 BCE.
Emerging from these early examples, weaving has developed into an enormous industry. Essentially, weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric. Other techniques include: knitting, lace making, felting and braiding. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling . ( Weft , or woof is an old English word meaning that which is woven. ) Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. The way that these warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave . The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weave (strong and hard-wearing, used for fashion and furnishing fabrics, with a simple criss-cross pattern), satin weave (which typically has a glossy surface and a dull back, characterized by four or more weft yarns floating over a warp yarn, or vice versa) and finally, twill (a pattern of diagonal parallel ribs - in contrast with a satin and plain weave).
Before the Industrial Revolution (1760-1840), weaving was a manual craft and wool was the principal staple. In the great wool districts a form of factory system was introduced, but in more rural areas weavers worked from home on a putting-out system. The wooden looms of that time were either broad or narrow ; broad looms were those too wide for the weaver to pass the shuttle through the shed, necessitating employing an assistant (often an apprentice). This ceased to be necessary after John Kay invented the flying shuttle in 1733 however. The flying shuttle essentially involved a box, at either end of the loom, which caught the shuttle at the end of its journey, and propelled the shuttle on its return trip. This massively sped up the process of weaving, consequently resulting in a shortage of thread and a surplus of weaving capacity! The problem was largely solved with the opening of the Bridgewater Canal in June 1761, allowing cotton to be brought into Manchester, an area rich in fast flowing streams that could be used to power machinery.
Edmund Cartwright was the first to attempt to mechanise weaving. He built a factory at Doncaster and obtained a series of patents between 1785 and 1792. Cartwright later sold these to the Grimshaw brothers of Manchester, but their Knott Mill mysteriously burnt down the year afterwards. Whatever the process, woven grey cloth - the end-product of weaving, was then sent to finishers , where it was bleached, dyed and printed. Natural dyes were originally used, with synthetic dyes coming in the second half of the nineteenth century (the need for these chemicals was an important factor in the development of the chemical industry too). Up until this point, all textiles were made from natural fibres; animal substances such as wool or silk, plant based materials such as cotton, flax or jute, and mineral sources, such as asbestos and glass fibres. In the twentieth century however, these were supplemented by artificial fibres made from petroleum.
Today, the textile industry is thriving, creating many sub-industries - such as those purely devoted to colouring or patterning the woven material. Many famous fashion designers, such as Armani, Gianni Versace and Emilio Pucci have relied on textile designs to set their fashion collections apart; easily recognisable by their signature print driven designs. In properly printed fabrics the colour is bonded with the fibre, so as to resist washing and friction. This can be done by stencils, wood-blocks, engraved plates, rollers or silkscreens. Woodblock printing, still used in India and elsewhere today, is the oldest of these dating back to at least 220 CE in China. Most commonly however, textiles are dyed all over, with fabrics now available in almost every colour. Coloured designs can be created by simple printing, weaving together fibres of different colours (tartan or Uzbek Ikat), adding coloured stitches to finished fabric (embroidery), creating patterns by resist dyeing methods, tying off areas of cloth and dyeing the rest (tie-dyeing), or drawing wax designs on cloth and dyeing in between them (batik).
Textiles have been a fundamental part of human life since the beginning of civilization. As has been evidenced, the methods and materials used to make them have expanded enormously, but the function of fabric itself has largely remained the same! The history of textile arts is also the history of international trade, as silks were brought from China to India, Africa and Europe, whilst Tyrian purple dye was an important trade good in the ancient Mediterranean. We hope this book inspires your own journey into textiles and weaving. Enjoy.
CONTENTS
D RAWING-IN D RAFTS
Straight Draft
Scattered or Satin Draft
Pointed Draft
Broken Draft
Intermittent Draft
Manifold or Corkscrew Draft
Group Draft
Divided Draft
Combination Draft
D RAFTING W EAVES
Twist of Yarn
Set of Threads
T HE P LAIN W EAVE
T HE T WILL W EAVE
T HE S ATIN W EAVE
Irregular Satins
Double-stitched Satins
Double-stitched Filling Satins
Double-stitched Warp Satins
Filling Satins with Extra Stitchers
D ERIVATIVE W EAVES
B ASKET W EAVES
R IB W EAVES
Long Ribs
Cross Ribs
Figured Ribs
Irregular Ribs
Stitched Ribs
Combination Ribs
S TEEP T WILLS
U NDULATING T WILLS
B ROKEN OR R EVERSED T WILLS
O FFSET T WILLS
C ORKSCREW T WILLS
I NTERLOCKING T WILLS
F ANCY T WILLS
H ERRINGBONE OR P OINTED T WILL
Pointed in Both Warp and Filling
D IVERSIFIED W EAVES
Plain Weaves
Twills
Satin Weaves
Rib Weaves
H ONEYCOMB W EAVES
B REAKS OR R ECESSES IN THE C LOTH
L ACE OR M OCK L ENO W EAVES
W EAVES THAT D EFLECT C ERTAIN T HREADS
C R PE W EAVES
Derived from Satin Weaves
By Arranging Floats in Satin Order
By Transposition of Weaves in Checkerboard Order
By Rearranging Other Weaves
By Rearrangement of Warp Threads
By Rearranging Warp and Filling Threads
With Groups of Threads on the Same Shaft
By Interlocking a Weave with its Reverse
By Interlocking Two Weaves
By Drafting One Weave over Another
By Drafting a Weave in Four Squares
R EFORM W EAVES
Which the Warp is 1 Face, 1 Beck
With Two Threads on the Face for One on the Back
In Which the Filling Threads Alternate on Face and Back
B ACK W ARP F ABRICS
Back Warp and Stuffing Picks
B ACK F ILLING F ABRICS
T RICOT W EAVES
Tricot Long
Tricot Cross
C LOTHS WITH AN E XTRA I NNER F ABRIC
D OUBLE C LOTHS
T UBULAR F ABRICS
R EGULAR D OUBLE F ABRICS
Double Cloths with Stuffing Threads
T HREE OR M ORE P LY C LOTHS
Stitched with Extra Threads
W EAVES FOR W OVEN B ELTING
C ORDED W EAVERS
Corded Stripes
Cross Cords
Diagonal Cords
D OUBLE W EAVES S TITCHED TO F ORM T HE P ATTERNS (M ATELASS )
M ONTAGNAC W EAVES
C OM