92 pages

English

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Encyclopedia of Embroidery Techniques , livre ebook

Search Press - Pauline Brown

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92 pages

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Informations

Publié par	Search Press
Date de parution	01 janvier 0001
Nombre de lectures	0
EAN13	9781800930209
Langue	English
Poids de l'ouvrage	282 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,0650€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

Extrait



The Encyclopedia of

TECHNIQUES

Pauline Brown

TECHNIQUES A unique visual directory of all the major embroidery techniques, plus inspirational examples of traditional and innovative finished work

Pauline Brown

SEARCH PRESS Classics

THE ENCYCLOPEDIA OFEmbROIDeRY TECHNIQUES

PàUlINe BROWN

Search Press

ThEMES LandScaPE PEoPLE and aniMaLS fLowErS and PLanTS aBSTracT oBJEcTS and garMEnTS

TEchniquES SURFàCe EmbROIDeRY LinE STiTchES couching chain STiTchES Band and BordEr STiTchES crETan and fEaThEr STiTchES SaTin STiTchES

12 14 15 17 18 20 22 24 25 26 28 30 32 34 36

aSSiSi work counTEd croSS STiTch BLackwork drawn ThrEad work hardangEr PuLLEd work

MàCHINe EmbROIDeRY uSing ThE PrESSEr fooT frEE Machining diSSoLvaBLE faBricS

Contents MàKING à StàRt 6

110 112 114 116 117 118 119 120 123 124

cuTwork BrodEriE angLaiSE nEEdLELacE

applIQUé

PrEParaTion

58 59 60 62 64 68 70

iTaLian quiLTing

cOUNteD THReàD EmbROIDeRY

raw-EdgE aPPLiquÉ

PaddEd aPPLiquÉ

inTErfacing

38 39 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 57

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the written permission of the copyright holder.

Assistant Editor: Georgia CherryArt Director: Caroline GuestDesigner: Julie FrancisCreative Director: Moira ClinchPublisher: Paul Carslake

nEEdLEwEaving

neeDlepOINt

inSErTion STiTchES crEwEL work Laidwork

gLoSSary indEx acknowLEdgMEnTS

MachinE quiLTing

otHeR TeCHNIQUes BEadwork

74 75 77 78

ThrEE-diMEnSionaL aPPLiquÉ

Shadow aPPLiquÉ

MachinE aPPLiquÉ

qUIltING waddEd quiLTS TraPunTo quiLTing

PErSian aPPLiquÉ

Conceived, designed and produced by Quarto Publishing plc The Old Brewery 6 Blundell Street London N7 9BH www.quartoknows.com

Published in 2016 by Search Press Ltd Wellwood North Farm Road Tunbridge Wells Kent TN2 3DR

80 82 84 86

Shadow quiLTing

A QUARTO BOOK

TurnEd-EdgE aPPLiquÉ

170 171 176

QUAR.EET2

100 101 102 103 104 106

iSoLaTEd STiTchES

Long and ShorT STiTch

Metàl THReàD EmbROIDeRY couching METaL ThrEadS or nuÉ raiSEd EffEcTS

TExTurEd STiTchES

89 90 92 93 94 94 96 98 99

four-way BargELLo

108 108

128 130 138 146 154 162

round MoTifS

raiSEd STiTchES

Credits: page 2: Flowers by Aizaada Chunueva; page 4: Dandelion of a Thousand Wishes by Katherine Diuguid (detail); page 5: Badger by Helen Richman (left); Cute Thatcher by Emillie Ferris (right)

riBBon work Shadow work SMocking rEvErSE SMocking STuMPwork

croSSEd STiTchES diagonaL STiTchES EyELETS SquarE STiTchES LEavES and fLowErS

PrEParaTion

BargELLo EMBroidEry

nET EMBroidEry

BaSic TEchniquE

ISBN: 9781782214755 ebook ISBN: 978-1-80093-020-9

M a k i n g a S T a r T

MàKING à stàRt

EmbROIDeRY IN tHe 21st CeNtURY Hàs COme à lONG WàY FROm tHe tRàDItIONs OF tHe pàst. hOWeVeR, tHe bàsIC metHODs stIll HOlD GOOD – WItHOUt sOUND teCHNIQUe àND sUItàble màteRIàls àND eQUIpmeNt, embROIDeReRs àRe UNlIKelY tO be àble tO eXplOIt tHeIR IDeàs tO CReàte eXCItING àND INNOVàtIVe WORK. MOst peOple màNàGe WItH QUIte à smàll bàsIC KIt OF tOOls: sCIssORs, pINs àND NeeDles, tàpe meàsURe àND embROIDeRY FRàme, àND tHese, tOGetHeR WItH àN IRON àND à seWING màCHINe, àRe àll tHàt àRe NeeDeD tO stàRt.

Needles it Is esseNtIàl tO CHOOse à NeeDle WHICH sUIts bOtH tHe FàbRIC àND tHReàD àND tHe tYpe OF embROIDeRY YOU àRe UNDeRtàKING. THe NeeDle sHOUlD pàss eàsIlY tHROUGH tHe FIbRes OF tHe FàbRIC, àND tHe YàRN tHROUGH tHe eYe OF tHe

Darners

Tapestry needles

NeeDle. neeDle sIze Is DesIGNàteD bY NUmbeR, WItH tHe lOWest NUmbeR IN eàCH CàteGORY sIGNIFYING tHe lONGest àND tHICKest. Embroidery (or crewel) needlesIN sIzes 1–10 HàVe lONG eYes WHICH WIll tàKe embROIDeRY sIlKs, COttONs àND lINeNs, àND FINe WOOls. THeY àRe sUItàble FOR à WIDe RàNGe OF embROIDeRY teCHNIQUes. Quilting needles, àlsO KNOWN às “betWeeNs”, àND màDe IN sIzes 1–10, àRe sHORt WItH smàll ROUND eYes. THeY àRe IDeàl FOR tHe QUICK, eVeN stItCHING NeeDeD FOR teCHNIQUes sUCH às QUIltING àND HemmING IN FINe tHReàD. Chenille needles, IN sIzes 13–24, HàVe sHàRp pOINts àND làRGe eYes, àND WIll tàKe

Beading needles

Chenille needles

Bodkins

Circular needles

àll tYpes OF tHICK YàRN às Well às RIbbON àND RàFFIà. Tapestry needlesàRe sImIlàR tO CHeNIlles, àND àlsO COme IN sIzes 13–24, bUt HàVe blUNt pOINts WHICH slIp betWeeN tHe tHReàDs OF CàNVàs OR tHe FIbRes OF eVeNWeàVe lINeN, màKING tHem tHe CORReCt CHOICe FOR NeeDlepOINt àND àll COUNteD tHReàD metHODs. otHeR speCIàlIst NeeDles INClUDe lONG, FINe beàDING NeeDles, àND leàtHeR NeeDles WHOse tRIàNGUlàR pOINts WIll pIeRCe àll tYpes OF leàtHeR, sUeDe OR plàstIC. BodkinsàRe FOR tHReàDING elàstIC, RIbbONs àND CORDs, WHIle CIRCUlàR NeeDles àRe GOOD FOR tHRee-DImeNsIONàl embROIDeRY.

Quilting needles

Embroidery (or crewel) needles

Leather needles

Threads gOOD-QUàlItY tHReàD àND YàRNs àRe esseNtIàl, àND tHeY sHOUlD be seleCteD NOt ONlY FOR pRàCtICàl ReàsONs bUt àlsO FOR àestHetIC ONes: COlOUR àND teXtURe àRe bOtH VItàl FàCtORs IN embROIDeRY. THeRe àRe sO màNY DIFFeReNt tYpes OF tHReàD ON tHe màRKet tODàY tHàt tHe CHOICe màY àt FIRst be OVeRWHelmING. iNDeeD àNYtHING WHICH CàN be tHReàDeD tHROUGH tHe eYe OF à NeeDle CàN be pUt tO Use IN àN ImàGINàtIVe WàY FOR eXpeRImeNtàl WORK. BesIDes CONVeNtIONàl embROIDeRY tHReàDs, KNIttING àND CROCHet YàRNs, RIbbONs àND CORDs àRe àlsO ReàDIlY àVàIlàble, WHIle sOme OF tHe mORe speCIàlIst Items CàN be pURCHàseD bY màIl ORDeR. Cotton threadsIN à RàNGe OF COlOURs àND tHICKNesses àRe WIDelY UseD FOR àll tYpes OF embROIDeRY, às tHeY àRe HàRD-WeàRING àND WàsHàble. StRàNDeD COttON Is pàRtICUlàRlY VeRsàtIle beCàUse tHe sIX stRàNDs CàN be DIVIDeD tO pRODUCe à NUmbeR OF tHICKNesses. THIs màKes It sUItàble FOR DIFFeReNt eFFeCts àND teCHNIQUes, pàRtICUlàRlY FOR sURFàCe stItCHes. fOR COUNteD tHReàD WORK, CHàNGes OF tONe CàN be àCHIeVeD bY VàRYING tHe NUmbeR OF stRàNDs. iN NeeDlepOINt, COttON

Pearl cotton

Metallic threads

CàN àDD lUstRe tO CONtRàst WItH tHe màtt teXtURe OF tHe mORe UsUàl WOOlleN tHReàDs. Pearl cotton (perle)Is à sHINY, tWIsteD YàRN WHICH COmes IN bàlls àND sKeINs IN tHRee tHICKNesses – 3, 5 àND 8. it Is sUItàble FOR sURFàCe embROIDeRY, NeeDlepOINt àND COàRseR tYpes OF COUNteD tHReàD WORK. Coton à broderHàs à slIGHt sHeeN àND Is OF FINe tWIsteD CONstRUCtION. it Is VeRY GOOD FOR COUNteD tHReàD teCHNIQUes àND smOCKING às tHeRe àRe NO stRàNDs tO sepàRàte. Soft embroidery threadIs à tHICK COttON YàRN WItH à màtt sURFàCe; It CàN be UseD FOR NeeDlepOINt àND WORK ON COàRselY WOVeN FàbRICs. Embroidery woolsCOme IN seVeRàl QUàlItIes àND tHICKNesses. altHOUGH sOme àRe pRImàRIlY màNUFàCtUReD FOR NeeDlepOINt, tHeY àRe sUItàble FOR àll tYpes OF sURFàCe embROIDeRY sUCH às CReWel àND làID WORK. Tapestry woolIs à 4-plY tWIsteD YàRN, WHIle CReWel WOOl Is 2-plY àND CàN be UseD sINGlY OR seVeRàl stRàNDs àt à tIme. THRee-stRàNDeD PeRsIàN WOOl Is lOOselY tWIsteD.

Tapestry wool in 2, 3, 4ply

Rug canvas

Silk thread

Aida

Hardanger

Machine threads

Linen/cotton

Linen and silk threadsàRe àVàIlàble IN speCIàlIst sHOps – lINeN Hàs à DUll, slIGHtlY ROUGH sURFàCe IN CONtRàst tO tHe beàUtIFUl lUstRe OF sIlK. Machine threadsINClUDe ORDINàRY seWING COttON àND pOlYesteR às Well às tHICKeR bUttONHOle tWIst. iN ReCeNt YeàRs tHe RàNGe OF màCHINe embROIDeRY tHReàDs Hàs beeN VàstlY eXteNDeD tO INClUDe metàllIC-FINIsH àND sHàDeD VàRIetIes. Metal threadsCOme IN GOlD, sIlVeR, COppeR àND àlUmINIUm, RàNGING IN tYpe FROm FINe tàmbOUR tHReàDs sUItàble FOR stItCHING tO tHICKeR CORDs àND bRàIDs WHICH HàVe tO be COUCHeD. MàNY peOple Use sYNtHetIC tHReàDs FOR metàl tHReàD embROIDeRY.

Fabrics wHeN CHOOsING FàbRICs, tHe pRàCtICàl àspeCt OF tHe pROjeCt sHOUlD be CONsIDeReD às Well às tHe COlOUR àND teXtURe. wàllHàNGINGs àND embROIDeReD pàNels pReseNt FeW pRàCtICàl bàRRIeRs, WHeReàs GàRmeNts àND HOUseHOlD Items NeeD à FàbRIC WHICH CàN be CleàNeD OR WàsHeD. fOR àll DeCORàtIVe Items, tHe teXtURe àND COlOUR OF tHe bàCKGROUND FàbRIC WIll màKe à VIsUàl ImpàCt tOGetHeR WItH tHe OtHeR màteRIàls UseD. iN àDDItION, It Is esseNtIàl tO CHOOse FàbRICs WHICH àRe sUItàble FOR tHe pàRtICUlàR embROIDeRY teCHNIQUe. EmbROIDeRY FàbRICs àRe UsUàllY COttON OR lINeN, WHICH màY be ClOselY WOVeN FOR sURFàCe embROIDeRY àND CUtWORK teCHNIQUes. EVeNWeàVe FàbRICs, WHICH àRe àlWàYs UseD FOR COUNteD tHReàD WORK, àRe WOVeN, WItH FROm 12 tO 32 tHReàDs peR 2.5 Cm (1 IN). SOme, sUCH às aIDà àND

Evenweave cotton

Doublethread canvas

hàRDàNGeR FàbRICs, àRe CONstRUCteD WItH à DOUble-tHReàD WeàVe. dRess àND FURNIsHING FàbRICs IN bOtH NàtURàl àND sYNtHetIC FIbRes àRe àVàIlàble IN à WIDe RàNGe OF teXtURes àND pàtteRNs. THese màY be INCORpORàteD IN àpplIQUé pROjeCts OR UseD às bàCKGROUNDs. fOR NeeDlepOINt embROIDeRY, tHeRe àRe tWO màIN tYpes OF WOVeN CàNVàs, tHOse WItH sINGle OR DOUble tHReàDs. BOtH àRe àVàIlàble IN VàRIOUs WIDtHs àND GàUGes (OR tHReàDs peR INCH). SINGle (OR mONO) CàNVàs COmes IN GàUGes RàNGING FROm 10 tO 24 tHReàDs peR 2.5 Cm (1 IN) àND Is mORe àDàptàble FOR stItCHING à VàRIetY OF stItCHes. dOUble (OR PeNelOpe) CàNVàs Is màINlY UseD FOR tRàmmING OR FOR FINe DetàIls. rUG CàNVàs IN GàUGes 3 tO 7 Is sUItàble FOR làRGe-sCàle WORK, àND mOUlDeD plàstIC Is OFteN UseD FOR RIGID àRtICles sUCH às bOXes àND tàblemàts. THeRe àRe à NUmbeR OF sUbsIDIàRY tYpes OF FàbRICs WHICH àRe UseD bY embROIDeReRs tO sUppORt OR pàD tHeIR WORK. wàDDING Is UsUàllY màDe OF sYNtHetIC FIbRes, bUt sOmetImes OF sIlK OR COttON. its màIN Use Is FOR QUIltING (pàGe 101) OR FOR pàDDING àND stUFFING tHRee-DImeNsIONàl sHàpes. felt CàN àlsO àCt às à FIRm pàDDING OR às àN INseRtION IN tYpes OF àpplIQUé. nON-WOVeN IRON-ON OR seW-IN INteRFàCINGs UseD bY DRessmàKeRs àRe àlsO sUItàble FOR stIFFeNING FàbRICs FOR àpplIQUé OR FOR bàCKING FINIsHeD WàllHàNGINGs; bONDING Web Is eXtRemelY UseFUl FOR FUsING FàbRICs tOGetHeR. dIssOlVàble FàbRICs UseD FOR làCY eFFeCts àND màCHINe CONstRUCtIONs COme IN eItHeR HOt-OR COlD-WàteR tYpes (pàGes 86–7).

Singlethread canvas

Other equipment TWO pàIRs OF sHàRp sCIssORs àRe NeeDeD FOR embROIDeRY – à làRGe pàIR FOR CUttING OUt FàbRIC àND à smàll pàIR FOR tRImmING tHReàDs àND CUttING INtRICàte pIeCes OR HOles. PINKING sHeàRs àRe UseFUl FOR CUttING DeCORàtIVe eDGes. a stIlettO, OFteN FOUND IN OlD WORKbOXes, Is UseD FOR màKING eYelets IN bRODeRIe àNGlàIse. usING à tHImble Is làRGelY à màtteR OF peRsONàl CHOICe, bUt WIll pReVeNt sORe FINGeRs WHeN QUIltING OR WORKING IN leàtHeR. a blOCK OF beesWàX Is UseFUl FOR QUIltING àND metàl tHReàD embROIDeRY teCHNIQUes. THe tHReàD Is DRàWN tHROUGH It, pReVeNtING It beCOmING tWIsteD àND HelpING tO GIVe It stReNGtH.

Design materials MOst OF tHe eQUIpmeNt NeeDeD FOR DesIGNING embROIDeRY Is ReàDIlY àt HàND. a sKetCHbOOK, peNCIls àND COlOUReD CRàYONs OR Felt tIps àRe àll tHàt àRe NeeDeD FOR INItIàl àttempts. iF YOU pReFeR tO Use pàINt, WàteRCOlOUR, pOsteR àND GOUàCHe àRe tHe mOst UseFUl. dIFFeReNt tYpes OF pàpeR, INClUDING tRàCING àND GRàpH pàpeR, àRe ReQUIReD FOR sOme metHODs, WHIle COlOUReD àND teXtUReD pàpeRs àND CàRD àRe GOOD FOR steNCIls OR FOR tRYING OUt bOlD IDeàs. PàpeR sCIssORs, à CRàFt KNIFe àND metàl RUleR àRe UseFUl ImplemeNts WHeN WORKING WItH pàpeR OR CàRD. fàbRIC àND pàpeR àDHesIVes, màsKING tàpe àND GeOmetRY INstRUmeNts CàN àll be pURCHàseD às àND WHeN tHe NeeD àRIses.

Plastic canvas

Transferring designs THeRe àRe à NUmbeR OF WàYs tO tRàNsFeR àND màRK DesIGNs ON tO bàCKGROUND FàbRIC. THe metHOD àND tHe tYpe OF màRKeR DepeNDs ON tHe teCHNIQUe CHOseN, tHe FàbRIC àND tHe INtRICàCY OF tHe DesIGN. iN eVeRY Càse tHe DesIGN sHOUlD be VeRY lIGHtlY màRKeD sO tHàt It WIll NOt sHOW WHeN tHe embROIDeRY Is COmplete. fàbRIC màRKeRs INClUDe DRessmàKeRs’ CHàlK àND peNCIls, WàteR-sOlUble àND àIR-sOlUble peNs àND tRàNsFeR àND peRmàNeNt peNs. Direct tracingIs pRObàblY tHe sImplest metHOD FOR tRàNspàReNt màteRIàls. iF tHe FàbRIC Is OpàQUe, It CàN be tàpeD tO à WINDOW (OR à lIGHt bOX) WItH tHe DesIGN beNeàtH It. Dressmakers’ carbonCOmes IN seVeRàl COlOURs àND WORKs IN tHe sàme WàY às ORDINàRY CàRbON pàpeR. Pricking and pouncingIs ONe OF tHe OlDest metHODs àND Is sUItàble FOR Repeàt mOtIFs às ONlY ONe tRàCING NeeDs tO be màDe. Tracing and tackingIs best FOR bOlD DesIGNs. a VeRsION OF tHIs metHOD Is UseD IN màCHINe QUIltING WHeN tHe OUtlINe OF tHe DesIGN Is stItCHeD DIReCtlY tHROUGH tHe tRàCING pàpeR.

M a k i n g a S T a r T

PREPARATION OF FABRIC If the finished embroidery is to be washed, make sure that the fabric is preshrunk or wash it before embarking on the project. Leave at least 5 cm (2 in) extra fabric around the design to allow room for adjustments, framing or mounting.

PRICKING AND POUNCING Trace the design and turn it over to the reverse side. Place this on a soft surface, such as a piece of felt or a towel. Use a mediumsized needle to prick holes close together along the marked lines. Position the tracing right side up on the fabric and tape it in place. Make a pouncing pad by rolling up

POSITIONING THE DESIGN The tracing of the design can often be positioned by eye, but for more precise placing, find the centre of the tracing by folding it into quarters and mark this point, do the same with the fabric and align both marks.

a small rectangle of felt, holding it together by tying a length of cotton round it. Dip the end of this into a powder made from crushed dressmakers’chalk and charcoal. Rub the powder through the holes in the tracing paper with a circular movement. Remove the tracing and go over the dotted line lightly with your chosen marker.

DIRECT TRACING Outline the original drawing or tracing in black felt tip pen. For fine or transparent fabrics, tape the tracing to your work surface then tape the fabric in position on top. Trace the design with your chosen marker.

TRACING AND TACKING Trace the design and pin the tracing in position on the fabric. Begin the tacking with a knot and a back stitch and work small running stitches along the lines through both the paper and the fabric. Fasten off.

DRESSMAKERS’ CARBON Tape the fabric to the work surface. Tape the traced design in position on top with dressmakers’carbon, coloured side down, between the fabric and the tracing. Using a ballpoint pen, draw over the marked lines, pressing firmly.

Gently tear away the tracing paper to leave the tacked line, which may either be covered with the embroidery or removed as the work progresses.

Frames fOR tHe màjORItY OF embROIDeRY teCHNIQUes, tHe best ResUlts àRe àCHIeVeD IF tHe WORK Is mOUNteD IN à FRàme. it WIll RemàIN CleàN àND UNCRUmpleD, àND tHe teNsION OF tHe stItCHes WIll be eVeN. wHICHeVeR tYpe OF FRàme Is UseD, tHe FàbRIC sHOUlD FIRst be IRONeD, bàCKeD IF NeCessàRY àND tHe DesIGN màRKeD ReàDY FOR stItCHING. càRe sHOUlD be tàKeN tHàt tHe FàbRIC Is NOt DIstORteD IN àNY WàY bUt stRetCHeD WItH tHe WàRp àND WeFt RUNNING àt RIGHt àNGles tO ONe àNOtHeR. Ring (or hoop) framesIN WOOD OR metàl àRe àVàIlàble IN VàRIOUs sIzes àND àRe sUItàble FOR smàll embROIDeRY pROjeCts pROVIDeD tHe WHOle OF tHe DesIGN WIll FIt WItHIN tHe bOUNDs OF tHe FRàme. it Is NOt àDVIsàble tO RelOCàte tHe FRàme tO àNOtHeR pàRt OF tHe DesIGN, às tHIs màY CàUse DàmàGe tO pReVIOUslY WORKeD àReàs. Stretcher framesCONsIst OF FOUR leNGtHs OF sOFt WOOD, WItH mItReD CORNeRs, tO WHICH tHe embROIDeRY Is FàsteNeD WItH DRàWING pINs. Tapestry (or slate) frames COme IN VàRIOUs tYpes. THe mOst sàtIsFàCtORY àRe tHOse màDe Up OF tWO ROlleRs, eàCH WItH à tàpe àttàCHeD tO WHICH tHe CàNVàs OR embROIDeRY bàCKGROUND FàbRIC Is stItCHeD. THe ROlleRs àRe HelD àpàRt WItH sIDe bàtteNs WHICH HàVe splIt pINs OR peGs tO àDjUst tHe sIze.

RING (OR HOOP) FRAMES The inner ring may be bound diagonally with bias binding to protect fine or delicate fabrics. This also provides a better grip for free machine embroidery. Adjust the screw of the outer ring so that it fits loosely over the inner ring. Place

TAPESTRY (OR SLATE) FRAMES Mark the centre point of the fabric and fold a 12mm (½in) hem to the wrong side along the top and bottom edges, and a 2.5cm (1in) hem along the sides. Cut two lengths of string at least 45 cm (18 in) longer than the side battens. Place these inside the side hems and machine stitch near the edge to enclose each string. With wrong sides together, align the centre points on the top and bottom edges with the centre

the fabric over the inner ring. Press the outer ring down over the fabric and the inner ring, making sure the fabric is straight, taut and the area to be worked is in the centre of the ring. Tighten the screw to secure the fabric.

markings on the roller tape. Pin the fabric along the tape and overcast them together with strong, doubled thread, starting in the centre and working towards the edges. Insert the side battens and secure them with the split pins or pegs so that the fabric is taut. Tie the ends of the strings to the rollers. Lace the sides of the fabric to the side battens using string, threaded in a large eyed needle. Pull the string to tighten the fabric and tie the ends around the batten ends.

M a k i n g a S T a r T

STRETCHER FRAMES Mark the centre of each side of the frame and make corresponding marks on the fabric. Then, starting at the top edge, align the centre marks and secure with a drawing pin. Continue pinning at 12mm (½in) intervals, working towards the sides. Turn the frame and fasten the bottom edge in a similar way, stretching the fabric taut. To complete the other two sides, pin the centre points and continue towards the ends, pinning first one side and then the other to tension the fabric evenly.

Techniques

iN tHe pàst It Wàs UsUàl tO WORK à pIeCe OF embROIDeRY UsING ONlY ONe teCHNIQUe tHROUGHOUt. hOWeVeR, embROIDeRY Hàs eVOlVeD tHROUGH tHe 20tH àND 21st CeNtURIes tO beCOme VeRY mUCH à meàNs OF àRtIstIC eXpRessION FOR pROFessIONàl teXtIle àRtIsts. TODàY tHeRe àRe NO RestRICtIONs ON tHe embROIDeReR. SeVeRàl metHODs CàN be COmbINeD IN ONe pIeCe, àND HàND-pàINteD àND DYeD FàbRICs, HàND-màDe pàpeR OR FOUND ObjeCts CàN be INCORpORàteD WItH tRàDItIONàl HàND- OR màCHINe-stItCHeD teCHNIQUes. THIs FReeDOm Is Well WItHIN tHe sCOpe OF tHe àmàteUR àND beGINNeR WHO HàVe ONlY tO màsteR tHe VeRY bàsICs beFORe beING àble tO DesIGN tHeIR OWN WORK.

S u r f a c E E M B r o i d E r y

Surface Embroidery

Line Stitches

Couching

Chain Stitches

Band and Border Stitches

Cretan and Feather Stitches

Satin Stitches

Long and Short Stitch

Raised Stitches

Round Motifs

Isolated Stitches

Insertion Stitches

Crewel Work

Laidwork

a RepeRtOIRe OF sURFàCe stItCHes Is tHe màIN elemeNt OF àlmOst eVeRY tYpe OF embROIDeRY. kNOWING à COlleCtION OF bàsIC stItCHes plUs à FeW mORe UNUsUàl ONes WIll eNàble YOU tO CReàte DIFFeReNt eFFeCts àND WORK màNY teCHNIQUes. SURFàCe embROIDeRY Is sOmetImes KNOWN às FReestYle stItCHeRY beCàUse tHe stItCHes àRe WORKeD INDepeNDeNtlY OF tHe WeàVe OF tHe bàCKGROUND FàbRIC, àND UNlIKe COUNteD tHReàD embROIDeRY, CàN be màDe IN àNY DIReCtION àND IN àN INFINIte VàRIetY OF YàRNs. StItCHes CàN be GROUpeD IN à NUmbeR OF WàYs, tO màKe lINes, FORm CIRCles OR CReàte WIDe bàNDs OF pàtteRN. SOme àRe UseD às smàll IsOlàteD elemeNts, WHIle OtHeRs màY sOlIDlY FIll à spàCe. hOWeVeR, eVeN tHOUGH à stItCH Fàlls INtO à CeRtàIN CàteGORY WHeN UseD CONVeNtIONàllY, It CàN UsUàllY be àDàpteD OR mODIFIeD tO pRODUCe à DIFFeReNt eFFeCt. wHeN tHe WORKING OF à stItCH Hàs beeN màsteReD, It Is à GOOD IDeà tO eXpeRImeNt bY àlteRING tHe sCàle àND DIReCtION, bY WORKING HàpHàzàRDlY OR UsING VàRYING tHICKNesses àND DIFFeReNt tYpes OF YàRN. SOme stItCHes CàN be OVeRlàppeD, WHIle OtHeRs CàN be WORKeD IN tWIsts, spIRàls àND CIRCUlàR mOtIFs. THIs tYpe OF eXpeRImeNtàtION WIll pRODUCe IDeàs FOR sUbjeCts OR elemeNts IN à DesIGN, àND YOU WIll FIND INspIRàtION FROm tHe pàtteRNs àND teXtURes WHICH YOU CReàte WItH FàbRIC àND tHReàD.

Fabrics altHOUGH tHe tRàDItIONàl FàbRIC UseD FOR sURFàCe embROIDeRY Is eItHeR lINeN OR COttON, tODàY’s embROIDeReRs àRe HàppY tO Use àNY bàCKGROUND FàbRIC WHICH sUIts tHeIR pURpOse. fOR pRàCtICàl àRtICles sUCH às tàble lINeN, CONsIDeRàtION NeeDs tO be GIVeN tO Its Uses. BUt embROIDeReD pICtURes, pàNels àND WàllHàNGINGs pReseNt FeW bàRRIeRs àND tHe bàCKGROUND màY be CHOseN màINlY FOR Its COlOUR àND teXtURe. fOR tHIs tYpe OF WORK tHe bàCKGROUND FàbRIC CàN be sUppORteD ON à bàCKING FàbRIC àND tHe embROIDeRY stItCHeD tHROUGH bOtH làYeRs. fOR tHe best ResUlts It Is pReFeRàble tO mOUNt tHe WORK IN à FRàme.

Threads THReàDs FOR sURFàCe embROIDeRY màY INClUDe tHe FUll RàNGe OF embROIDeRY tHReàDs (pàGe 8) àND OtHeRs sUCH às KNIttING WOOls, CROCHet COttONs àND eVeN stRING, tàpes àND RIbbONs (pàGe 118). iN GeNeRàl teRms tHe WeIGHt àND tHICKNess OF tHe tHReàD sHOUlD be màtCHeD tO tHàt OF tHe FàbRIC, bUt It Is OFteN pOssIble tO DIsReGàRD tHIs RUle FOR DeCORàtIVe eFFeCt. a VàRIetY OF YàRNs CàN be UseD FOR UNUsUàl àND CReàtIVe WORK, pROVIDeD YOU CàN pUll tHe tHReàD tHROUGH tHe FàbRIC WItHOUt DIstORtION.

Needles SeleCt embROIDeRY NeeDles sUItàble tO tHe tHICKNess OF tHe YàRN. cHeNIlle NeeDles HàVe à làRGeR HOle FOR tàKING tHICKeR tHReàDs.

Line Stitches

SOme OF tHe mOst UseFUl stItCHes àRe tHOse WHICH màKe tHIN lINes NàtURàllY – sUCH às RUNNING, stem, CHàIN àND COUCHING. THeY CàN be UseD FOR DeFINING OR OUtlINING sHàpes às Well às FOR DepICtING stems OF FlOWeRs, blàDes OF GRàss OR bRàNCHes OF tRees; àND WORKeD IN FlOWING lINes tHeY WIll GIVe mOVemeNt tO à DesIGN. rOWs OF lINe stItCHes CàN àlsO be WORKeD ClOse tOGetHeR tO FIll àN àReà mORe sOlIDlY. rUNNING stItCH, tHe sImplest OF àll, màKes à bROKeN lINe. THIs stItCH Is OFteN seeN IN HàND QUIltING, bUt Is àlsO UseFUl às à bàsIs FOR ORNàmeNtàtION WItH WHIppING àND INteRlàCING. BàCK stItCH FORms à CONtINUOUs tHIN lINe sImIlàR tO màCHINe stItCHING, WHIle stem stItCH pRODUCes ROpelIKe lINes WHICH CàN VàRY IN tHICKNess DepeNDING ON tHe àNGle àt WHICH tHe NeeDle Is INseRteD.

RUNNING STITCH

Working from right to left, bring the needle in and out of the fabric at regular intervals, making evenly spaced stitches. Running stitch can be varied by working stitches of different lengths and with irregular spaces. Solid rows of stitching can be built up to give a flat texture.

WHIPPED RUNNING STITCH

Work a row of evenly spaced running stitches. Starting with a new thread in a tapestry needle, bring the needle up alongside the first stitch and take it through the next stitch but not through the fabric. Repeat. Variations can be made by using a contrasting thread for whipping or by altering the length and spacing of the running stitches. Multiple rows of running stitch can also be whipped.

L i n E S T i T c h E S

INTERLACED RUNNING STITCH

Work a row of evenly spaced running stitches. Using a tapestry needle and another thread, take the needle alternately up and down through the stitches but not through the fabric. Interlace a third thread similarly from the reverse direction. Multiple rows of running stitches can also be interlaced.