Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die , livre ebook

ABRAMS BOOKS - Santella Chris Santella

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116 pages

English

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Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die is a beautifully illustrated guide to the most thrilling surfing destinations in the world. Covering quintessential beaches, including: Oahu's North Shore; Australia's Gold Coast; and of course, Malibu, California, the book also invites you to discover such unexpected gems as the Amazon and the Gulf of Alaska. From the frigid waters off Iceland's Reykjanes Peninsula to Nazare, Portugal, where in 2013 Garrett McNamara broke a world record for surfing the tallest wave (78 feet!), Fifty Places to Surf takes readers on a wide-roving adventure, divulging the details that make each venue unique-and plenty of tips for those who aspire to surf there. Featuring interviews with seasoned surfing experts such as pro surfer Joel Parkinson and Billabong executive Shannan North, Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die is an essential travel companion for surfers of all levels who are looking to catch that perfect wave.

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Surfing

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Publié par	ABRAMS BOOKS
Date de parution	09 avril 2019
Nombre de lectures	5
EAN13	9781683355007
Langue	English
Poids de l'ouvrage	9 Mo

Informations légales : prix de location à la page 0,1600€. Cette information est donnée uniquement à titre indicatif conformément à la législation en vigueur.

Extrait

This book is for my girls-Cassidy, Annabel, and Deidre-and for everyone who s ever paddled forth to catch a wave.

ALSO BY THE AUTHOR
Fifty Places to Run Before You Die
Fifty Places to Drink Beer Before You Die
Fifty Places to Camp Before You Die
Fifty Places to Paddle Before You Die
Fifty Places to Bike Before You Die
Fifty Places to Fly Fish Before You Die
Fifty More Places to Fly Fish Before You Die
Fifty Places to Ski Snowboard Before You Die
Fifty Places to Sail Before You Die
Fifty Places to Go Birding Before You Die
Fifty Places to Dive Before You Die
Fifty Places to Hike Before You Die
Fifty Places to Play Golf Before You Die
Fifty More Places to Play Golf Before You Die
Once in a Lifetime Trips: The World s Fifty Most Extraordinary and Memorable Travel Experiences
Fifty Favorite Fly-Fishing Tales: Expert Fly Anglers Share Stories from the Sea and Stream
Why I Fly Fish: Passionate Anglers on the Pastime s Appeal and How It Has Shaped Their Lives
The Hatch Is On!
The Tug Is the Drug
CAT WARS (with Dr. Peter Marra)
Contents
Acknowledgments
Foreword
Introduction
THE DESTINATIONS
1 Alaska: Yakutat
RECOMMENDED BY JACK ENDICOTT
2 Australia: Gnaraloo Station and Beyond
RECOMMENDED BY FELICITY PALMATEER
3 Australia: Gold Coast
RECOMMENDED BY JJ JENKINS
4 Barbados: Surfer s Point
RECOMMENDED BY ZED LAYSON
5 Brazil: The Amazon
RECOMMENDED BY SERGINHO LAUS
6 Brazil: Rio de Janeiro
RECOMMENDED BY JULIO ADLER
7 British Columbia: Tofino
RECOMMENDED BY MATHEA AND SANOA OLIN
8 California: Malibu
RECOMMENDED BY DAVID OLAN
9 California: San Clemente
RECOMMENDED BY RICK ERKENEFF
10 California: San Francisco
RECOMMENDED BY ANDY BURTIS
11 California: Santa Barbara
RECOMMENDED BY SAM ADAMS
12 California: Santa Cruz
RECOMMENDED BY RICHARD SCHMIDT
13 Costa Rica: Mal Pais and Beyond
RECOMMENDED BY CHAD LEONARD
14 Denmark: Faroe Islands
RECOMMENDED BY BEN WEILAND
15 England: Newquay
RECOMMENDED BY ROBERT BARBER
16 Fiji: Tavarua
RECOMMENDED BY SHANNAN NORTH AND JOEL PARKINSON
17 Florida: Cocoa Beach
RECOMMENDED BY MATT KECHELE
18 France: Biarritz
RECOMMENDED BY STEPHEN VEYTIA
19 France: Hossegor
RECOMMENDED BY DAVID MAILMAN
20 French Polynesia (Tahiti): Teahupo o
RECOMMENDED BY SUZI ALLEN
21 Ghana: Kokrobite and Beyond
RECOMMENDED BY BRETT DAVIES
22 Hawaii-Oahu: North Shore
RECOMMENDED BY DAVE WASSEL
23 Hawaii-Oahu: Waikiki
RECOMMENDED BY DUANE DESOTO
24 Iceland: Reykjanes Peninsula and Beyond
RECOMMENDED BY ING OLSEN
25 India: Karnataka and Beyond
RECOMMENDED BY JACK SWAMI HEBNER
26 Indonesia: Grajagan
RECOMMENDED BY NICK CARROLL
27 Indonesia: The Mentawai Islands
RECOMMENDED BY BRENDON D ARCY
28 Indonesia: Nemberala
RECOMMENDED BY GREG ROGERS
29 Indonesia: Nihi Sumba
RECOMMENDED BY TERRY SIMMS
30 Ireland: Bundoran
RECOMMENDED BY RICHIE FITZGERALD
31 The Maldives: Mal Atolls
RECOMMENDED BY SEAN WALKER
32 Marshall Islands: Beran Island
RECOMMENDED BY MARTIN DALY
33 Mexico: Salina Cruz
RECOMMENDED BY JOSH MULCOY
34 Morocco: Taghazout
RECOMMENDED BY JAMES BAILEY
35 Mozambique: Tofo and Beyond
RECOMMENDED BY JUSTIN STAROW
36 Namibia: Skeleton Bay
RECOMMENDED BY ALEX SMITH
37 New York: Montauk
RECOMMENDED BY JESSE JOECKEL
38 New Zealand: Raglan
RECOMMENDED BY MICHAEL MANTALOS
39 Nicaragua: Playa Maderas
RECOMMENDED BY LUIS MAHLER
40 North Carolina: Cape Hatteras
RECOMMENDED BY SCOTT BUSBEY
41 Peru: Huanchaco
RECOMMENDED BY FELIPE POMAR
42 Peru: Puerto Chicama
RECOMMENDED BY SEAN MURPHY
43 Portugal: The Azores
RECOMMENDED BY PEDRO ARRUDA
44 Portugal: Nazar
RECOMMENDED BY GARRETT MCNAMARA
45 Quebec: Montreal
RECOMMENDED BY CHRIS DUTTON
46 Rhode Island: Narragansett
RECOMMENDED BY PETER PAN
47 Scotland: Thurso
RECOMMENDED BY MARK BOYD
48 South Africa: Jeffreys Bay
RECOMMENDED BY DYLAN LIGHTFOOT
49 Sri Lanka: Gurubebila
RECOMMENDED BY MICHAEL BROMLEY
50 Taiwan: East Coast and Beyond
RECOMMENDED BY NEIL ARMSTRONG
Jeffreys Bay is perhaps the most celebrated surfing locale in South Africa.
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
This book would not have been possible without the generous assistance of the surfers who shared their time and experience to help bring these fifty great surfing venues to life. To these men and women I offer the most heartfelt thanks. A special thanks goes out to Dave Mailman, a surfing insider who made many introductions on my behalf and helped me steer toward the most favorable waves! I also want to acknowledge the fine efforts of my agent, Stephanie Kip Rostan, my editors Ashley Albert and David Blatty, designer Anna Christian, copyeditor Erin Slonaker, and proofreader Christopher Cerasi who helped bring the book into being. Finally, I want to extend a special thanks to my wife, Deidre, and my daughters, Cassidy and Annabel, for their patience with my peripatetic lifestyle . . . and to my parents, Tina and Andy, who, though passed now, always encouraged me to pursue my passions.
FOREWORD
When I was a kid growing up surfing in Orange County, California, family vacations to Hawaii and Mexico gave me my first delicious taste of surf travel. After my surfing buddies and I got our driver s licenses we started taking day and weekend trips up the coast to Rincon, Puerto Rico, and across the border to Baja California on a regular basis, inspired by surf movies like The Endless Summer and articles in Surfer magazine. But, it was a holiday to Australia with my brother and parents followed by a solo trip to stay with a family in southwest France a year later that really opened my eyes to what the world of surfing had to offer a teenager from the States.
Probably the most valuable lesson I ve learned in the thirty years since that first trip to Europe is that surf travel is just as much about the interesting people you meet along the way as it is about the exotic waves and cultural experiences. As you travel around to the surf spots of the world, you meet characters like the washed-up pro telling stories in the parking lot; the local hero you ve never heard of who surfs circles around you in the lineup; the dread-locked guitar player singing his favorite tunes around a beach bonfire; and the laidback bartender serving up apr s session shots of alcohol with names you can t pronounce and ice-cold beer chasers. The surfing world is full of colorful characters, each with their own unique surf stories to tell. Just like the ones in this book!
Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die takes you to some of the world s great surf destinations: some are classic surf towns, some are iconic surf spots, some are the most challenging waves the ocean has to offer, and some are waves that break hundreds of miles from the nearest ocean. All are illustrated by insights gleaned from an eclectic mix of people with a common passion for riding waves, each surfer with a special connection to the place they ve been so gracious to share with you in these pages. Although this book ticks all the boxes as a lifelong surfer s ideal read, you don t need to surf to enjoy it. Chris s style and wit make it entertaining for everyone. Hopefully, it will give those who are new to the sport the urge to paddle out for the first time, to learn what makes he e nalu -as the ancient Hawaiians called it-so incredible that people willingly sacrifice everything else in life to chase swells around the world in the hopes of surfing as many waves on their own list of the fifty best places to surf before they die!
-D AVID M AILMAN
Anyone who thought there was no surfing in Scotland has never visited Thurso.
INTRODUCTION
Though I ve never stepped on a surfboard in my life, I must admit that I ve always been intrigued by the sport. On some levels it has parallels with my favorite pastime, fly fishing. Like fly anglers, surfers are immersed in water for hours at a time and rewarded for their patience and their ability to gage (and exploit!) the conditions Mother Nature offers. And the lifestyle, at least as presented in popular culture-kicking back at the beach, often with a guitar and a cold can of beer in hand, surrounded by men and women who are as passionate about their sport as you are-certainly has an appeal. The few surfers I knew when I lived in San Francisco (and later, in Oregon) possessed an independence and sense of adventure I admired.
I wrote Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die for those adventurous surfers who are ever-ready to drop everything, grab their board(s), and head off in search of the next wave.
What makes a destination a place to surf before you die? you might ask. The chance to surf in the wake of world champions that have come before you? The opportunity to explore an unfamiliar city or country from the unique perspective offered from its beaches and coastal bluffs? A chance to immerse yourself in the beauty of stunning natural settings while pushing past physical boundaries? Or simply the opportunity to share waves and stories with like-minded people who, beyond the beach, might lead very different lives than you? The answer would be yes to all of the above, and to an abundance of other criteria. One thing I knew when I began this project: I was NOT the person to assemble this list. So I followed a recipe that served me well in my first fourteen Fifty Places books-to seek the advice of some committed surfers.
To write Fifty Places to Surf Before You Die I interviewed a host of people closely connected with the surfing world and asked them to share some of their favorite experiences. These experts range from celebrated surfing professionals (like Joel Parkinson and Richie Fitzgerald) to media personalities (like JJ Jenkins and Nick Carroll) to noted surf explorers (like Martin Daly). Some spoke of venues that are near and dear to their hearts, places where they ve built their professional reputations; others spo