Citizen K Arabia du 17-04-2023
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Date de parution 17 avril 2023
Langue English
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2023PAN_CITIZEN K ARABIA_205+204x275_F_SS23_D4_1AVRIL.indd 1PAN_CITIZEN K ARABIA_205+204x275_F_SS23_D4_1AVRIL.indd 1 21/03/2023 13:4421/03/2023 13:44N°27 - SPRING 2023
KAPPAUF
Founder, President, Creative and Editorial Director
HONORÉ LAZOVICE PRESIDENT
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EDITORIAL
EDITORINCHIEFMATTHIAS DEBUREAUX
JOSÉPHINE RONEYDEPUTY EDITORINCHIEF
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LAURENT DOMBROWICZFASHION EDITORATLARGE
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| CITIZENK ARABIA CONTENTS PAGES 12 & 148VENICIAN CLICHÉ
ONE WEEK
WITH A GENIUS
Writer Lucien d’Azay remembers
a wonderful event that happened
to him in the company of photographer
Henri Cartier-Bresson, then visiting
Venice incognito.
By LUCIEN D’AZAY
Cartier-Bresson (already) in his incognito reporter outfit in 1960
It was in September 1998 , he had just celebrated his launch a political movement, the qualunquismo (consisting,
th80 birthday. Gallerist Claude Bernard, who had invited him paradoxically, in opting out, at the expense of institutions). It
to Venice, asked me to accompany Henri Cartier-Bresson each is all the more difcult to identify that it has passed into the
morning, for a week, to the museums where he wanted to see a mainstream. Henri didn’t cast a positive look on this mob, as he
piece, or two. Despite his advanced age and the ffty-eight years was always on the lookout for the individual who would stand
separating us, the photographer presented himself on an equal out from the crowd by resonating with their environment.
footing, always lively, with mischief in his eyes, alert; he talked At the end of the last century, tourists hadn’t yet taken the
little, relishing in each sentence like a haiku before delivering, habit of snapping pictures of themselves with the aid of a -self
drop by drop, the quintessence of his aesthetics. ie stick. They would ask for the help of a passer-by whose -be
At the Academia, he was interested by a painting by Piero nevolent appearance suggested the capacity to capture a nice
della Francesca, St Jerome and a Donor (Girolamo Amadi); at portrait. Often, couples or mavericks would call upon me to
the Scuola de San Giorgio degli Schiavoni, St Augustin in His satisfy their basic narcissistic needs. I must have the right
Study by Carpaccio; and in the church of San Sebastiano T, he look for the part. Henri had it too, evidently: I already
menVirgin, baby Jesus, and several saints by Veronese. Incognito tioned his ad hoc array. Thus, we were doubly susceptible, in
(in any case, who could have recognised this master concealer our anonymity, to be enlisted by the uomo qualunque. I notably
with his reporter arsenal designed to “decorate” and observe remember a nice Japanese couple. Smiling, they present their
his surroundings without being seen), Henri would settle on camera to us so we can photograph them on the Molo, with
his cane-seat in front of the painting, take out his notepad, and San Giorgio Maggiore in the background. “Let me handle this,”
carefully sketched, with a pencil, the geometric composition. Henri whispers to me. He takes his time, as he would with his
Nothing held his interest more than perspective lines, vanish - Leica 24 × 36 with central lens shutter, discreet and noiseless.
ing points, and the manner of creating echo between similar He will later confess to me that he made it so the heads of his
fgures whose subtle arrangement he pointed out for me to a-d impromptu models were touching the top edge of the framing,
mire. Barely out of the Museum’s enclave, we are exposed to the even cutting them out a little at the level of the hairlines. Our
unfurling fow of tourists. The hordes of humanoids invading tourists had no idea they were dealing with the master of the
Venice are recruited, for the most part, among the sort of p-eo “random lens”, as André Breton put it. I imagine them, back in
ple stigmatised, in Italian, by the phrase uomo qualunque (ordi- Tokyo, or Kyoto, commenting on their Venetian portrait with
nary man). Universally anonymous, as a Roman weekly paper such a curious framing unaware that they hold in their hands
called him in the post-war period, this nondescript person will a Henri Cartier-Bresson original photograph 
CITIZENK ARABIA | 9
PHOTO, KEYSTONE PHOTOS USA/ZUMA PRESS/ALAMYMOTUS
The truth
of the legend
By MAÏTÉ TURONNET
ave you ever heard of Yvette, and Joseph Sassi, an old school support of clients whose identities are
Henry Jacques? Neither perfumer, part of the fifth generation kept as secret as their manufacturing
had we, until yesterday. of a dynasty from Grasse. They click in- techniques. A few are suspected of b-e
This fragrance house is stantly, sharing a passion for raw mater-i ing part of the clientele including royalty H nonetheless one of the als and weary of practising a not gratif-y from the Persian Gulf (as for instance, it
most extraordinary in ing enough job; they decide to completely has been confrmed, the founder of the
existence; and certainly the most con- turn their lives around by moving to United Arab Emirates, Sheikh Zayed bin
fdential. The reason is that, ever since Provence, building a creative shop in Sultan Al Nahyan), currently hindered
its creation in 1975, it has only produced Draguignan, and embarking on a dizzy- Russian oligarchs, and other worldwide
custom-made scents for enamoured, en - ing adventure: absolute excellence. At a excellencies (Hollywood stars, Brazilian
lightened, and (very) well-of enthusiasts. time when the ofer is overfown by the football players, Californian industria-l
To date, three thousand creations make rise of mass market and shiny marketing ists?) who despise the idea of smelling
up the select perfume collection of the (uniform scents and phoney bottles), of like their bodyguards. We should
menlaboratory. course, it works! tion, since they gave permission, the
couIt all started with the encounter of the The company soars thanks to word of ple Xisca and Rafael Nadal (brand amba-s
young publicist Henry Cremona, his wife mouth, a few exhibits, and the unfailing sador of the watchmaker Richard Mille,
| CITIZENK ARABIA10
PHOTO, R.R.As we perceive it as an
industry, we would never
have imagined that
one day we’d write that
perfume is “a mystery”,
“a phenomenal luxury”,
“a work of art”. And yet,
it is what we dare express
today in the opening
of this article.
uncle of Anne-Lise Cremona, daughter of art (O Alvar Aalto), starting with the to the process of adding a piece of trufe
of the founders, now President of the bottles themselves, drawn by architect to a container of eggs during a
prosperHouse), whose line “In All Intimacy” Christophe Tollemer, some of which, ob- ous season in order to infuse them with
composed of three citrusy juices (owing viously made of crystal, are “caged” in the favour of the fungi freshly delivered
to the Spanish culture) just came out. golden lacework and precious stones. A from the Périgord. The practice of
infuWhere? The most curious among you series of intimate rooms, delightfully sion is indeed several millennia old and
will ask: the frst shop opened in London soothing, where, in showcases in light- consists of immersing a fragrant
prodat Harrods. Then in Los Angeles, Abu ing wo

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